Rookie Querstions on the Triglide

Sooooo, did your salesman forget to tell you that the brakes actually need broken in? Burnished, I think they call it. I don't have my owners book at hand so can't check it but I think they address this problem there. Brand new the rear brakes don't offer much stopping power, (my salesman warned me about that). I'm up to 2100 miles on mine and the rear brakes are working much better. I can lock them up with a little effort. I don't think there is a problem here, its just a matter of time and riding style. The front brake is very good, capable of locking up the wheel (with two fingers) at speeds over 60 mph (tractor with bale forks pulled onto the hiway in AR in front of me). Heavy use of the back brakes before they have been broken in results in a glazed surface on the discs and this reduces stopping power. Perhaps softer brake pads may help but I haven't seen the need.

OK, I should probably note that this works for me but may not work for everyone else.

Dwight
 
Sooooo, did your salesman forget to tell you that the brakes actually need broken in? Burnished, I think they call it. I don't have my owners book at hand so can't check it but I think they address this problem there. Brand new the rear brakes don't offer much stopping power, (my salesman warned me about that). I'm up to 2100 miles on mine and the rear brakes are working much better. I can lock them up with a little effort. I don't think there is a problem here, its just a matter of time and riding style. <div class="bbcode_container]

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[/RIGHT]If you don't have anti lock brakes, you might want to practice threshhold braking.

A locked wheel at 60 mph can have catastrophic consequences!
 
Sooooo, did your salesman forget to tell you that the brakes actually need broken in? Burnished, I think they call it. I don't have my owners book at hand so can't check it but I think they address this problem there. Brand new the rear brakes don't offer much stopping power, (my salesman warned me about that). I'm up to 2100 miles on mine and the rear brakes are working much better. I can lock them up with a little effort. I don't think there is a problem here, its just a matter of time and riding style. The front brake is very good, capable of locking up the wheel (with two fingers) at speeds over 60 mph (tractor with bale forks pulled onto the hiway in AR in front of me). Heavy use of the back brakes before they have been broken in results in a glazed surface on the discs and this reduces stopping power. Perhaps softer brake pads may help but I haven't seen the need.

OK, I should probably note that this works for me but may not work for everyone else. Dwight

I have around 3,000 miles on my Tri-Glide so don’t think that the problem with the rear brakes being “Marginally Adequate” have anything to do “braking-in” new brakes!

Stay Safe Out There!!!!

Jim
 
Ben,

For many years I had to ride my bikes without the ability to use the rear brake. With the new electric shifters I can now leave the shift lever on the left side and operate the rear brakes. Before the electric shifters were available I built mechanical linkage to move the shifter to the right side. This makes using the rear brake a problem. For years I've been in the habit of "covering" the front brake lever with one or two fingers while I'm riding. It's become a reaction now to use the front brakes first and then add in the rear brakes. By the way, up until 2004 I was still riding two wheelers, still ride my Buell occasionaly. The Buell has an incredible front brake, stoppies are easy!:yes: This "covering" of the front brake is something i still do on the trikes and IMHO this works well for me, probably not for everyone. Riding a Harley also adds in a delay for the rear brakes because you have to move your foot to the brake pedal to use it. After saying all of this you are still absolutely correct that everyone should learn the proper braking procedures!

Jim,

I'm not doubting that you have a brake problem.

If the rear discs have glazed over though, you would have to take corrective action to make them work right, I don't think more miles will help.

If I had this problem I would take the rear wheels off, lightly sand the discs with a very fine grit emery, replace the brake pads and then try the break-in procedure again. That's just me, since this is probably warranty work your shop should be able to help you. Remember, this is an old time remedy that was used on drum brakes also, there maybe something new that works now. Anyway, I hope you get the problems fixed, it's always agravating to have trouble with a new vehicle.

Dwight
 
Good post Dwight. I cover my brakes too and highly recommend it. One of the things that I especially like about touring and ST bikes as opposed to the cruisers that I have ridden is that with my foot on the peg, the rear brake pedal is right there.

As you say glazed brake rotors or drums will not heal themselves.

Ben,

For many years I had to ride my bikes without the ability to use the rear brake. With the new electric shifters I can now leave the shift lever on the left side and operate the rear brakes. Before the electric shifters were available I built mechanical linkage to move the shifter to the right side. This makes using the rear brake a problem. For years I've been in the habit of "covering" the front brake lever with one or two fingers while I'm riding. It's become a reaction now to use the front brakes first and then add in the rear brakes.

By the way, up until 2004 I was still riding two wheelers, still ride my Buell occasionaly.

The Buell has an incredible front brake, stoppies are easy!:yes: This "covering" of the front brake is something i still do on the trikes and IMHO this works well for me, probably not for everyone. Riding a Harley also adds in a delay for the rear brakes because you have to move your foot to the brake pedal to use it. After saying all of this you are still absolutely correct that everyone should learn the proper braking procedures!

Jim,

I'm not doubting that you have a brake problem. If the rear discs have glazed over though, you would have to take corrective action to make them work right, I don't think more miles will help. If I had this problem I would take the rear wheels off, lightly sand the discs with a very fine grit emery, replace the brake pads and then try the break-in procedure again. That's just me, since this is probably warranty work your shop should be able to help you. Remember, this is an old time remedy that was used on drum brakes also, there maybe something new that works now. Anyway, I hope you get the problems fixed, it's always agravating to have trouble with a new vehicle.

Dwight
 

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