Installing DK's DIY crank case breather

FuzzyWuzHe

New member
Dec 30, 2014
13,721
8,188
Grand Junction, Co. USA
If you're like me, I already had a Harley Stage One Air Cleaner and Mounting Plate.

Being on a budget, i wanted to install a crank case breather and not spend a ton of $$$.

Contacted DK's customer support and got Devin, not sure there's a better man for that job (sorry Kevin, but, he is soooo knowledgable). He walked me through what I needed to figure out before he could recommend a "Kit". After sending him a pic of my air cleaner mount, he told me the only way to do a vent kit was to drill and tap the mounting plate. I wasn't real sure I wanted to be drilling and taping on my engine, even as handy as I am. He pointed me to the video on "How To" and it was a great video. Very detailed and really well done. Still, I wasn't sure I wanted to risk ruining this plate.

I routed around in my vast Harley Gold .... don't lie ... we all have this, and found the stage one mounting plate from my 15 Tri. I figured they were the same, so I pull the air cleaner off again and verified. Yep, the same part number and everything. So what does this mean? Means I can modify the 15 Tri one, install the kit, and install it on my bike. When I decide to trade it, I can put the stock one back on. Kewl.

So, I marched back to DK's site and watched the Video like 3 more times. Armed with my new found knowledge, I marched off and decided to document my efforts and share. Maybe someone wanting to do this and being a tad intimidated to do it will be able to tackle it too.

Should be noted here before I begin, none of the steps that I took where not covered in the Video. As stated, the Video is what gave me the courage to tackle this (well, that and it was a spare plate I was drilling on). Also, my decision to paint the plate externals, was not in the Video, so I boldly went where no man has gone before, not really, but it sounded good.

Step one is to measure, measure, measure. I used the one on the bike as a guide, then measured and transferred the measurements to the spare. I did not take pics of this, my bad, but basically I wrapped the ears in masking tape and marked where I thought they would look good. I then transferred the measurements for those marks to the spare mounting kit. I used a rule and a protractor to do this (protractor for the angle of the holes). If you where using the plate on your bike, transferring the measurements wouldn't be necessary. I would think eyeballing it might be good enough. As stated in the Video, make sure you have space to clear the control box on the left side of the mounting plate when mounted on the bike and left as looking at it. Made a "dent" with a punch and commenced drilling.

Being cast aluminum I think, I was a bit worried about it cracking if I did it in one or two steps (Drilling that is). I started really small and went one drill bit size at a time. All the way up to the bit just below the one I ordered with the kit. I ordered the drill and tap kit along with it. Just to be sure. By going drill bit by drill bit, I got a nice clean hole. See Pics.

2018-03-27 10.37.25.jpg

2018-03-27 10.37.31 HDR.jpg

The next step is to do the final drilling, and then tap. More about that later when the kit gets here.

While waiting, I decided to plug the holes with the RTV forma gasket used in the Video. This was incredibly easy, much easier than I thought it would be, the key here is to trim the nozzle as small as possible and squeeze it into the hole. It's a lot of squeezing, but, you end up with a nice clean "fill" of the hole. The actual "hole" (actually a tunnel that goes from the inside of the air filter to the inside of the ears where I drilled the holes) is about 2" long and maybe an 1/8" if that in diameter, so you can imagine forcing the RTV into that hole is time consuming. You can see in the pics below that it did indeed squeeze out of the tunnel (will be trimmed after it dries) and did fill all the way up to the air cleaner area.

2018-03-27 10.37.45 HDR.jpg

2018-03-27 10.37.59 HDR.jpg

The inside will be cleaned up after it dries also.

Another, "while I'm at it", add to this job was to paint the "Visible" portions of the mounting plate. I went with high temp engine paint. I went with an engine black. My thought process is my eye goes right to those ears, even though I have the Old Style Oval on my bike. The pic is from the 15 Tri, but, you can see the "ears"

2014-12-17 13.37.55.jpg

You still see them peeking out and I am obsessed with that ... LOL. Anyway, here's a pic of the paint and the RTV I used.

Paint and RTV 16.18.jpg

So right now, I am waiting for the RTV to dry and the paint to dry. Really exciting huh? But since I'm also waiting on the kit to arrive later this week, no biggie.

More as I keep going.
 
That is a nice job. When I changed the crankcase breather on mine I felt a bit intimated to try the mod on the stock back plate and wound up buying a DK stage one back plate. Where are you placing the breather filter? I bought a decorative one put it directly under the air cleaner. I think getting the spent gases and oil from going back into the combustion chamber is one of the best mods you can do. Looking at the pics on DK's website of pistons with and without this mod really says it all.

Looking good, keep the info/pics coming.
 
That is a nice job. When I changed the crankcase breather on mine I felt a bit intimated to try the mod on the stock back plate and wound up buying a DK stage one back plate. Where are you placing the breather filter? I bought a decorative one put it directly under the air cleaner. I think getting the spent gases and oil from going back into the combustion chamber is one of the best mods you can do. Looking at the pics on DK's website of pistons with and without this mod really says it all.

Looking good, keep the info/pics coming.

A good clean breathing engine PRICELESS:clapping:
 
Before I got with Kevin @ D K Customs I had already drilled an exit hole in my stock M8 air cleaner back plate and rerouted the head breathers

Best 10 minutes I spent;)
 
Where are you placing the breather filter?

I think I will go with just under the right floorboard, kind of. I routed it there on my tri and I liked when I took the bike to the car wash, i could just clean the filter too, no oil from cleaning on the engine. I thought I had a pic of the filter location, but, I don't. Basically, routing it to the left side under the floorboard was easier because you didn't need to bend the hose as much, making the oil have a straighter run. I'll do more pics when I get it finished. Kit will be here 3/29, according to the USPS.
 
Minor Update

Okay, so I'll admit it. Today is cloudy, damp and cool. A combination my left knee hates with a passion. So not much done on the ride today.

I did get a second light coat of Hi Temp Black Engine paint on the air cleaner bracket and the spare set of bolts (forgot about them when I did the first coat). Will probably have to touch them up after tightening them down. I can do that with a brush after spraying some paint in a paper cup.

Painted.jpg
 
Kit is in Grand Junction ... Bike is on the Python ... not that I'm excited about this or anything.

Bike is on the Python so I can route the wires for the Power Vision (supposed to be here tomorrow) ... while I'm at it, I'm gonna pull the outer fairing and reroute the Sirius antenna. Gonna move it to on top of the dash, less interference and better reception. Did this on the Tri too, much better reception and the antenna doesn't look too bad there. I also found a nice chrome trim piece for the back of the tour pak, in my garage, that I never got around to installing on the Tri. Gonna put that on too. Should keep me busy until the kit gets here ... :D
 
Kit is in Grand Junction ... Bike is on the Python ... not that I'm excited about this or anything.

Bike is on the Python so I can route the wires for the Power Vision (supposed to be here tomorrow) ... while I'm at it, I'm gonna pull the outer fairing and reroute the Sirius antenna. Gonna move it to on top of the dash, less interference and better reception. Did this on the Tri too, much better reception and the antenna doesn't look too bad there. I also found a nice chrome trim piece for the back of the tour pak, in my garage, that I never got around to installing on the Tri. Gonna put that on too. Should keep me busy until the kit gets here ... :D

I'm going to sit here and wait, I'm very excited.
 
Update

The kit came late this afternoon.

In the morning I did a last coat of paint on the backing plate and put it in the oven at 180* for an hour (Mom wasn't happy, but, I reminded her it was my house .. LOL). After that I let it cool until the kit arrived.

Late afternoon.

I used the drill that I ordered with the kit to size the holes, then the tap that I ordered with the kit to tap threads. Really easy to tap the threads, it's aluminum. Since the fittings are tampered, I did a little at a time so the inside of the fitting ended up fairly close to flush with the inside wall of the "ear". I used some White Seal that I use on gas fired pool heaters to lube and seal the threads. I suppose I could of used the red RTV I used to fill the holes, but, to be honest, I didn't think about it. I made the little loop of hose to the "T" at the bottom of the plate and attached the long remaining hose. I then did some touch up paint and realized I hadn't taken any pics, my bad. I didn't want to try to get it off the shelf again while it was wet, so I'll do pics in the morning.
 
The kit came late this afternoon.

In the morning I did a last coat of paint on the backing plate and put it in the oven at 180* for an hour (Mom wasn't happy, but, I reminded her it was my house .. LOL). After that I let it cool until the kit arrived.

Late afternoon.

I used the drill that I ordered with the kit to size the holes, then the tap that I ordered with the kit to tap threads. Really easy to tap the threads, it's aluminum. Since the fittings are tampered, I did a little at a time so the inside of the fitting ended up fairly close to flush with the inside wall of the "ear". I used some White Seal that I use on gas fired pool heaters to lube and seal the threads. I suppose I could of used the red RTV I used to fill the holes, but, to be honest, I didn't think about it. I made the little loop of hose to the "T" at the bottom of the plate and attached the long remaining hose. I then did some touch up paint and realized I hadn't taken any pics, my bad. I didn't want to try to get it off the shelf again while it was wet, so I'll do pics in the morning.

A good job again

I am NOT a big fan of RTV Only when I have to

It can cause a lot of problems if used in the wrong application JMO;)
 
Final

So I really couldn't decide where to route the filter to. I temporarily put it under the air cleaner. I may do as another poster did and get a fancy filter and leave it there.

Here is what I found when I removed the backing plate.

Old Backing Plate.jpg

Here's what the intake looked like

Intake.jpg

I used new gaskets and o-rings.

New Gaskets.jpg

Here it is installed

Installed.jpg

With the cover on

Filter 2.jpg

Here's the Black Ears

Black Ears.jpg

All in all, I think it's clean and more importantly, the bike now breaths fresh cool air.
 
That's coming together nicely. I think the breather looks good, not sure I'd spend the dollars for a fancier one, unless that one doesn't catch all the oil and gets things messy. But regardless, like you said, it's running without the spent gasses!
 
Very nice job! :clapping: I think I'm routing mine under the right floorboard.

I've kind of been playing with the length of hose I have left over, and I'm thinking of routing it to under the left floor board. or just where the fuel tank vents come out under the bike. The left floorboard is appealing, mainly because the bike leans to the left on the stand and it is less obvious hanging there. Where the fuel tank vents are routed is really inconspicuous, but, might be hard to get to with the wand at the car wash to clean ... the good news ... I've got lots of time to make a decision.
 
I've kind of been playing with the length of hose I have left over, and I'm thinking of routing it to under the left floor board. or just where the fuel tank vents come out under the bike. The left floorboard is appealing, mainly because the bike leans to the left on the stand and it is less obvious hanging there. Where the fuel tank vents are routed is really inconspicuous, but, might be hard to get to with the wand at the car wash to clean ... the good news ... I've got lots of time to make a decision.

IMO good choice

Gravity will pull the oily mess easier leaning on the jiffy stand over night when parked

The only thing I see is make sure your hose is away from ALL heat sources, this tends to speed up the degradation of the hose Use double wall oil friendly hose;)

I ran mine thru some conduit to insulate it
 
I've kind of been playing with the length of hose I have left over, and I'm thinking of routing it to under the left floor board. or just where the fuel tank vents come out under the bike. The left floorboard is appealing, mainly because the bike leans to the left on the stand and it is less obvious hanging there. Where the fuel tank vents are routed is really inconspicuous, but, might be hard to get to with the wand at the car wash to clean ... the good news ... I've got lots of time to make a decision.

DSC00390.JPG DSC00208.JPGDSC00273.JPGNice job Fuzz if your ultra is anything like old shiney your going to have mess on the timing chest in short order slim will go through the filter just sayin though nice neat install. :Shrug: Fred
 
View attachment 56179 View attachment 56180View attachment 56181Nice job Fuzz if your ultra is anything like old shiney your going to have mess on the timing chest in short order slim will go through the filter just sayin though nice neat install. :Shrug: Fred

Yea, I kind of figured that, I think this weekend I'll look into routing it to just in front of the swing arm under the bike or to under the left floorboard. I'm pretty sure it won't stay there.
 

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