The Odessey of Wilma

[kerryb]

Baffleing issue

Wilma is running good, but is a little louder than I need. Current exhaust is a dual performance style with a simple baffle.

I'm seeking opinions of those who have done this, creating a new baffle to quiet it down without too much performace loss.

thinking of trying to make a perforated tube with a glass wrap. I saw this method in a kerker pipe on my cb750 that sounded real nice.

photos are of current parts

your thoughts or experience appreciated.

 

[rhino 2]

Wilma is running good, but is a little louder than I need. Current exhaust is a dual performance style with a simple baffle.

I'm seeking opinions of those who have done this, creating a new baffle to quiet it down without too much performace loss.

thinking of trying to make a perforated tube with a glass wrap. I saw this method in a kerker pipe on my cb750 that sounded real nice.

photos are of current parts

your thoughts or experience appreciated.

Check out the........Thunder Torques From DK Customs...

 

[kerryb]

Got it, thanks

 

[kerryb]

Well, I haven't done anything about baffles yet, but I am going forward with an attempt to put a sequential shifter on it for the next season. https://m.facebook.com/watch/?v=10207276104616730

does anyone have experience with one off these?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

No direct experience with one.

But I do know Luis.

I have seen a couple installed on facebook.

Lots of internal trans work involved ......it is not a bolt on mod.

 

[kerryb]

No direct experience with one.

But I do know Luis.

I have seen a couple installed on facebook.

Lots of internal trans work involved ......it is not a bolt on mod.

I was wondering that, studying his videos and working on my portugese!

Do you know what machining work is involved? I don't need the shifter, just thought it would be a very unique addition.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

No not exactly every detail.

But from what I understand the detent pawl and springs are removed from the syncro hubs. The shifter rail detent balls and springs removed. All the positioning is done by the new shifter......no "click" in the box. Then the rails have the hockey stick hooks cut off and a new end machined on them.

Contact Luis, he speaks English just fine, no communication problems.

There is one of these shifters here in the vw trike forum. As far as I know....still incomplete.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I had to go look......but I do have his instructions for his first generation shifter.

He is on gen 3 or 4 by now and it keeps getting better. So the instructions I have are obsolete.

I probably even have his autocad design files on my server at work (first gen).

But I am not going to make one, especially outside of Luis's permission.

 

[vwbug72501]

I've got one!

I've got one of Luis' first gen shifters and and Rex is correct...Not a bolt on installation! You have to disassemble the trans and basically rebuild it. It is not out of the realm of possibility for someone with above average mechanical skills and experience if being installed on a rear engine trike.

My installation has been stalled by several factors. First, in all major projects, Life gets in the way. Secondly, my build is a front engine design similar to Rex's so I had to flip the ring gear to get proper rotation. If you are using the same ring and pinion and case then it's not too much of an issue. BUT, if you are converting to a "Freeway Flier" R&P and flipping the ring gear (as I am attempting) then you need special VW tools (rare as hen's teeth) or LOTS OF TIME to assemble, fit, measure, disassemble, shim, reassemble, fit, remeasure, etc. until you get the proper gear mesh on the R&P. That's where I'm at for now. The disassembly of the gear stacks and syncros is pretty straight forward like any standard rebuild. You will have to either get some VW fixtures or have a junk trans housing to cut up to provide a jig for the reassembly of of the gear stacks and adjustments of the shifter rods.

Expect to find worn out syncros, goobered up gears and worn or broken shift forks on any used (Not recently professionally rebuilt) trans. Tracking down the correct parts can take on a life of its own as not all VW parts are created equal and the variances can mess you up. https://thesamba.com is a good resource for information and parts.

I presently have the gear stacks reassembled and the shift forks adjusted. I recently located a guy from my VW past in Memphis who used to rebuild VW transaxles and he has agreed to help me with the R&P adjustments. Hope to be able to set aside some time soon to tackle the R&P.

Another major hurdle for my project is that I want a foot shift, hand clutch setup. I really can't proceed on the clutch actuation geometry design until the trans is together and functional.

Luis' product is first class and professional in it's fit and finish. My transaction was easy and straight forward. Almost as easy as buying off Amazon. I used PayPal as they could handle the currency exchange rate and set up an escrow account to hold the funds until the product was delivered. We used DHL because they gave the best shipping rates and handled all the export/import paperwork. The shifter was delivered in 5-6 days from being shipped. Pretty good for Brazil to Arkansas!!

The sequential shifter is a bit pricey due to limited production (built to order) and higher shipping costs but if you don't want to be tied to an H pattern shifter or want a foot shift setup this is probably your best bet.

Good luck on your build.

 

[kerryb]

Thanks vwbug, I was not sure about it but now I know this shifter is not for me. I actually rather enjoy the h-pattern shifter, it helps me feel a part of the driving experience. I don't feel confident enough as a mechanic to be messing about inside my transmission. I do need to replace the bushing and seal in the nosecone, but that's not a very invasive procedure. Good luck with your build, hope you get to ride it soon.

 

[kerryb]

Okay, dumb question time...I think I need to replace the nosecone bushings on my type 1 transaxle due to wear. I've been searcjing for info on this procedure but haven't found a definitive answer about the procedure that I'm looking for. Cane the nosecone be removed without taking the transmission out, or is this a transmission-out job. Wilma isn't out of winter storage yet and I have to remove the body to get a good enough look to answer this for myself.

Not looking forward to taking my trike apart to put in a bushing!

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

In a car it is nearly impossible.

I have done it in a car by removing the engine but not fully removing the trans.

Now maybe in a trike with a way to get to the topside....and no engine bay to limit room.

It may be possible to take the two big bolts on the frame horns out and pull the whole drive back and get to it from the top.

I personally would take it apart....drop the engine and the trans.... especially if it is an IRS suspension (brake lines don't hafta come apart)

On a side note.....what wore out the bushing?

 

[kerryb]

In a car it is nearly impossible.

I have done it in a car by removing the engine ...

On a side note.....what wore out the bushing?

I don't know for sure, but here is the evidence,

The shifter box was broken when I got it...a little welding and brackets fixed that.

The shifter is off to the left side of the centerline of the tranny, so a universal joint is mounted just in front of the nosecone. I think this mis alignment may have contributed to the wear.

You can wiggle the "hockey stick" side to side with your fingers.

 

[kerryb]

I had the body off to fix a wiring issue and take a look at the transaxle access. I guess the best way to do this is remove the engine and then slide the tranny back far enough to get the nosecone off. Does it matter where I order the bushings? It seems there are two to replace.

On another note my muffler baffles arrived. They are universal baffles from drag specialties for a 3" pipe. Perforated tube with end caps, and fiberglass packing. Luckily I was able to put them in the lathe and take enough off the circumference of the end caps to make them fit. The sound is much better as the "cackle" noise is gone and replaced by a less harsh rumble. I fired it up in the shop so it's hard to tell if the actual loudness has been reduced. Hopes are high, we'll find out when the rain stops.