charging issue???

You know what I just painted my alternator stand.

Could it be that I am not getting a good ground there?

I will try the ground strap idea before I replace the alternator

The alternator should ground to the engine and the engine should ground to the frame

You can check for grounds with an ohm meter

A bad ground can cause erratic volt readings and cause over heat issues also

Adding extra grounds will not hurt in fact you may find them to help

Clean and tight grounds;)
 
You know what I just painted my alternator stand.

Could it be that I am not getting a good ground there?

I will try the ground strap idea before I replace the alternator

If the paint is thick enough, You probably aren't getting a good ground, Just file it down to bear metal at the alternators bolt down spots...
 
Since the VW alternator clamps in a saddle in the stand with a band. I'd say pull the alt and clean the paint off the inside of the stand saddle area where the strap surrounds the alt and the alt saddle area and reassemble. Maybe a small piece of aluminum screen wire in that area between the alt and stand will help with a gas-tight electrical connection from alt to engine and won't mess up your new paint job.
 
What does your battery read with out engine running?

Anything above battery voltage @ an idle should be fine

Fully charged battery reading 12.7 volts

So if your volt meter is showing say 12.9 to 13.5 @ idle should be OK( keep in mind this is no super Alternator nor does it have to be)

14.5 @ higher RPM is fine

You should check the volt reading from the battery wire on the alternator to compare it @ the battery The reading should be with in 1/2 volt

7-800 RPM is kind of low IMO maybe bump it up to 900 see what your voltage is
 
OK here are my readings

before starting

Battery - 12.67v

Alternator - 12.67v

Running

800 rpms - 12.38v

900 rpms - 12.49v

1000 rpms - 12.70v

1400 rpms - 14.38v

Running, battery wire removed from alternator and voltage tested at alternator

900 rpms 15.24v

I wish I would have ran this test before replacing the alternator

reconnected wire to alternator

set to 900 rpms

ran for 20 minutes at idle to simulate stuck on the road due to the recent road work around here

The voltage never went below 12.45

shut down the engine

12.67V

Summery

the voltage reading fluctuated up and down just a little on each reading but the above is about where they were

The battery is being kept charged

I think it will be OK so I'm going to leave it as it is.

Next project on this trike

Next I want to adjust me carburetor. I have not adjusted it for years and it seems to be running a little rich

http://3fowlers.com/carbsetup.html
 
"ran for 20 minutes at idle to simulate stuck on the road due to the recent road work around here"

Funny, but the true.

Seems those numbers are good, makes me glad that I don't have any gauges, :D.

Good luck on the carb, they can be tricky. My last one drove me crazy (cheap & old).

 
The only thing I can add, is to check the wiring #10 circuit from ign sw, to terminal board, to the alternator lite connections, then to the alternator This may be supplying the excitation voltage to start the alternator charging....worth a look!
 
The only thing I can add, is to check the wiring #10 circuit from ign sw, to terminal board, to the alternator lite connections, then to the alternator This may be supplying the excitation voltage to start the alternator charging....worth a look!

yep checked that

don't remember the exact voltage but it was above 12v
 
Running

800 rpms - 12.38v

900 rpms - 12.49v

1000 rpms - 12.70v

1400 rpms - 14.38v

Are these tests made with lights or anything else on?

I would still expect to see your original 12.7 volts even @ lower RPM

You are using more battery voltage @ lower RPM than you are making
 
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Running

800 rpms - 12.38v

900 rpms - 12.49v

1000 rpms - 12.70v

1400 rpms - 14.38v

Are these tests made with lights or anything else on?

I would still expect to see your original 12.7 volts even @ lower RPM

You are using more battery voltage @ lower RPM than you are making

All lights on and headlight on high beam

all the eye lights on to (lights in the skull eyes)

Amp powered up

GPS on

I guess I should have turned all that off
 
the problem came back or actualy never left

I thought it was fixed but was wrong

Should have listen to you Jack

the voltage started dropping down to 10v again

this time I disconnected every circuit not needed to actually run

it started charging fine

I then reconnected each circuit 1 at a time

It turned oy to be the Headlight circuit

Thought it was the dimmer switch but that turned out to be OK

disconnected 1 headlight still had the issue

disconnected the other headlight and the issue went away

put the headlight back the issue came back

replaced the headlight and the issue is gone

Now at idle and with everything on it charges above 13v

the bad headlight was still working just drawing to much

fuse 3.jpg
 

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