Air Filter Dilema

prariepilot

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After getting the DK Pro Action Shocks and Bearing Retainer Plates installed last week, it rained and the temperature tanked. So far no test rides! With this COVID-19 crisis, it provides time to give the TG a very thorough going over.

Went to remove the K & N air filter to soak it and it won't come off! It takes a #27 Torx to remove the three screws/bolts that hold it on. When I went to crank one out, it didn't budge and eventually, applying more pressure, the Torx snapped off!

Got another Torx and tried all three bolts; same result. I can't see any way to get behind the filter to get PB Blaster or some other lubricant in there to loosen them up.

Anyone got suggestions? Don't need any snapped off screws/bolts!

Thanks!
 
After getting the DK Pro Action Shocks and Bearing Retainer Plates installed last week, it rained and the temperature tanked. So far no test rides! With this COVID-19 crisis, it provides time to give the TG a very thorough going over.

Went to remove the K & N air filter to soak it and it won't come off! It takes a #27 Torx to remove the three screws/bolts that hold it on. When I went to crank one out, it didn't budge and eventually, applying more pressure, the Torx snapped off!

Got another Torx and tried all three bolts; same result. I can't see any way to get behind the filter to get PB Blaster or some other lubricant in there to loosen them up.

Anyone got suggestions? Don't need any snapped off screws/bolts!

Thanks!

Hmmm, guess someone might have used red Locktite on them. Bummer for sure.

Might try this - an impact driver: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...VxpyzCh0aOwxyEAQYBCABEgItJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This not only turns but pushes into the bolt to prevent slippage and distortion. Using it judiciously might do the trick.
 
Hmmm, guess someone might have used red Locktite on them. Bummer for sure.

Might try this - an impact driver: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...VxpyzCh0aOwxyEAQYBCABEgItJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This not only turns but pushes into the bolt to prevent slippage and distortion. Using it judiciously might do the trick.

Have owned one of these for years and they do work.Try riding it until it reaches a good temp may be enough to loosen the locktite up or using a pencil torch head the head of the bolt head then let it set for about 5 minutes to let the heat to travel the length of the bolt before trying to remove.
 
A couple years ago had the same thing happen to me on my Road King to service the K & N filter, couldn't get the screws loose no matter what, I rounded one of the screws, so I got out my dremel tool and cut a slot in the screw head plus did the other 2 while at it, took a big screw driver and a wrench to put on shaft and put pressure pushing in while turning the wrench they broke loose or otherwise would have dug out my impact driver. Went to hardware store and bought allen head screws to replace the screws.

All for now Trampas
 
[
QUOTE=Mykneesbehurtin;741189]Have owned one of these for years and they do work.Try riding it until it reaches a good temp may be enough to loosen the locktite up or using a pencil torch head the head of the bolt head then let it set for about 5 minutes to let the heat to travel the length of the bolt before trying to remove.[/QUOTE]


Every toolbox should have one. It was the only way to keep from destroying the points cover screws on my fist Honda.
 
Maybe a heat gun would help or hairdrier.. May have used the wrong thread locker and they wont budge with some heat.

May take a bit to get it warm enough to break them loose?
 
Maybe a heat gun would help or hairdrier.. May have used the wrong thread locker and they wont budge with some heat.

May take a bit to get it warm enough to break them loose?

It would work but then again the backing plate is plastic with metal inserts for the screws to thread into. Have to be really careful not to distort the plastic.
 
It would work but then again the backing plate is plastic with metal inserts for the screws to thread into. Have to be really careful not to distort the plastic.

Considering the heat of the engine has to be around 2-3 hundred degrees. I dont think a bit of heat will distort it unless you put it too close. Hair dryer probably more safer.

Or maybe drive the Trike around till it gets up to temperature then try taking off the screws??
 
Dont these bolts go thru the air filter and AC backing plate and into the throttle body?

Jack,

You got the gears turnin' and I got in the parts catalog to see just just where those screws go. The exploded view shows them going into the backer plate (plastic w/metal inserts, as said before). The backer plate is attached to the throttle body by the breather bolts.

Short of finding one of those Craftsmen impact drivers, I have an air wrench that may do the trick with the right reducers and chuck for the Torx bit. Overkill? Comments? Thanks to all; you've given me a few ideas!
 
Robert is this your air cleaner set up?

HD13FLHTCUSE8015.gif
 
A couple years ago had the same thing happen to me on my Road King to service the K & N filter, couldn't get the screws loose no matter what, I rounded one of the screws, so I got out my dremel tool and cut a slot in the screw head plus did the other 2 while at it, took a big screw driver and a wrench to put on shaft and put pressure pushing in while turning the wrench they broke loose or otherwise would have dug out my impact driver. Went to hardware store and bought allen head screws to replace the screws. All for now Trampas

Exactly what I did on y Freewheeler. I have changed out most of the torx head screws with socket head or cap screws. I do not like the torx head screws as I usually end up having to replace them sooner or later for this very issue.

Sunman
 
That's it, Jack. Had to go to Ronnie's H-D's Online Parts lists and look under 2012 TG to locate the drawings.
If you need parts to replace let me know. I removed the football off Old Shiney and stored the parts I have everything but the center of the air cleaner cover. I used that on the Boyeson X force I installed. For the cost of the shipping you can have what you need. :Shrug:Travel afe Fred
 
I may be wrong but is it possible that the inserts are to keep you from crushing the plastic? I thought the bolts would have to thread into the throttle body. All that may not matter . Good luck.
 
I may be wrong but is it possible that the inserts are to keep you from crushing the plastic? I thought the bolts would have to thread into the throttle body. All that may not matter . Good luck.

Okay, so I was really positive Jack was right, the screws go into the throttle body, but, I'm getting old and haven't "looked" at it in awhile. I went to the "Magic Garage", pulled my 12 ultra OEM backing plate and my 14 OEM backing plate.

Both

2020-03-20 11.40.10.jpg

12

12.jpg

14

14.jpg

As you can see in the pictures, there are no threads in the plastic backing plate, it is simply a bushing to keep from cracking the plastic when the screws are torqued. Probably about a 1/4" thick.

Apply some heat, not a lot to the throttle body ... attempt to remove. If you strip them, use a Dremel tool to grind flats on the torx heads and use an open end wrench to get a grip on them. If that doesn't work, grind the head off, use a vice grip to grab the remaining 1/4" of the screw. If that don't work, drill out the screws and retap the threads.

Don't ask how I know this procedure ... :AGGHH:
 
Not sure but in the past I could swear they used red Thread locker on those bolts.
 
Not sure but in the past I could swear they used red Thread locker on those bolts.

They should have no loc Tite. I like to use anti sieze here instead. It fills in the threads but will NOT lock up unlike Loc Tite , I believe the torque setting is 40-60 inch pounds. Keep in mind you will be servicing this filter so be careful with loc tite
 
I'm fairly certain the stuff on the threads was the white/grey waxy stuff HD is in love with. I've taken lots of the OEM air cleaner stuff off and all the threads have that white cr$p. Funny, never put one back on ... hmmmmm.
 
I'm fairly certain the stuff on the threads was the white/grey waxy stuff HD is in love with. I've taken lots of the OEM air cleaner stuff off and all the threads have that white cr$p. Funny, never put one back on ... hmmmmm.

Anti Sieze would be a better choice, it fills in the threads BUT makes for easier removal with out damage to threads;)
 

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