Question About SUPERTRAPP Exhaust - Soliciting Opinions

Hey 10rhrk,
Those photos were awesome, and just what I (this thread) needed. I sorta had an idea, but they were the icing on the cake.ThumbUp

looks like that may just work..But still I would recommend looking under your bike first before going to the store.

looks like the tool maybe just the ticket ...

trikermutha,
Unfortunately the store is 25 minutes before getting home, and would have been closed by the time I went back. I figure they have such a great return policy.........so..........


To All You Guys,
You have been the best, thank you so much!!!! You all deserve medals for putting up with my crap.

And as a result, not only do I have the confidence, I believe I have all the tools required as well. I have the flex head 1/2" ratcheting, the non-ratcheting offset 1/2", and the Gear Wrench version of the Sears 8-in-2 ratcheting wrenches (the Gear Wrench has a 5 degree swing and the Sears were much greater for the same price so I went with the Gear Wrench brand, same warr.). Whatever I don't use goes back.

I also bought red and the blue permatex liquid.

I really hope the Gear Wrench 8-in-2 works, but even if it doesn't I am going to keep them anyway to keep on the TG. It's a great way to have 8 sizes with only 2 wrenches.

They are calling for snow tomorrow so it's on baby, and I can take my time. I plan on getting a good nights rest, eating a decent breakfast, and hopefully can begin around noon. I plan on taking as many photos as possible along the way and even a video before and after to document the sound difference.

If I run into any trouble with the lift kit are you sure I can give you a call Dennis? I would appreciate it if so. And even after all this, don't be surprised if I do.

Anyway, I can't thank you guys enough. Honestly, you all helped make this happen.ThumbUp

Rob
 
It's nice to know I have friends like you guys that are willing to have fun at my expense, but who also worry about me and my well being ThumbUp !!!!

Ok, it's a Monday, I do my posts at work, I have a lot to say and show you, but in a nutshell,

:LooksGreat:

I need to reduce the size of the photographs I am going to upload to save room on the forum. I took over 60 pics, and two videos. It's all positive reviews on both the Lift Kit and the Mufflers. Please bear with me I want to do this right. I promise to post something later.

Rob
 
Ok Gang, Here we go. The weather was perfect, rain changing slowing to snow, to all snow, no chance of getting a ride in today so break out the tools. Take a deep breath, IT'S GO TIME!

Did just as I said, prepped myself by sleeping in, eating breakfast and then lazing around until almost 10 am.

Took me about an hour to get all the tools and lights set up. Had everything laid out before beginning. Oh, and I did cheat a bit, I forgot to mention I have an air wrench, set at 50 ft/lbs. Not that it mattered, because I forgot the air fitting didn't work with my hoses and I had to switch it out twice, once to get it off my air inflation fitting and then back again, after I read the manual that you need to add 2- 3 lbs of air to the shocks before letting any out so as to not let oil escape. I'm a stickler for detail sometimes. Anyway.

So, first thing I do is make sure I am even able to lift the Trike up in the air sufficiently to remove the rear wheels. I positioned my bike jack just south of the tranny cover and just barely caught the rear frame tube on the right. But it was enough. I checked the lifting, up, up, up, rear is sagging pretty bad.

Down, down, down, Hmmmmm. Ok, still not centered, so I need to keep the front down so the rear will stay up. Remembered msocko3 used eye hooks and straps! So I sorta did the same thing without putting holes in the floor.

So I attached straps to the bike jack, and then to the floor board supports, knowing as I raised the bike the straps would have to ultimately keep the front down, and raise the rear. Worked like a charm. But I was a little afraid that now the front might get tipsy. And I knew I'd be under the rear, and cranking on those shock bracket flange bolts and shock bolts, so I added some support in the front and the rear, in the form of a jack stand under the frame up front and a old car jack from a 75' Eldorado, in the rear under the gear protection frame. I knew it would only be there to keep the Trike from teetering so I wasn't worried about damage. Now I felt like i could work under the Trike safely.

So I figured I better start with the Lift Kit. It went just as Dennis said it would. To add to the safety factor, I used a wrench and a rubber mallet to loosen the bolts, knowing there would be little downward or upward force this way. Once they were loose I brought in the air wrench and zipped them right out. The axle dropped, and I used blue permatex thread lock and applied it to all the bolts and started putting them back in. Now, had I listed to Dennis exactly, I would have taken both existing supports off before trying to put the new ones on, so once I took the other existing one off, the new one I had started and was having trouble with was a breeze, and I probably didn't need to even let the air out of the shocks. Lesson learned, listen to Dennis save 45 minutes at least.

Honestly though,, getting set up and putting the tools away takes longer than installing the lift kit. Anyone in Harford County, or close to me wants a hand and doesn't have the tools or a garage, let me know. I would be glad to help out.

Ok, so on to the mufflers. I figured this would be the easy part, thinking having every possible tool available would be just what the doctor ordered for those bolts. I get under, start with the forward bolt, using the gear wrench and it's a snap! Wow, this is too easy. I get all excited, move to the rear bolt and no go! Not even close. Can barely feel the head of the bolt. What gives?! then I see what the problem is. The black rubber hanger vibration isolator is not centered on the hanger bracket and is so close to the rear bolt it is impossible to get anything on it. But it's just rubber. I thought about using a knife and removing some of it. But it is soft enough that, if, I, try, real, hard [grunting sounds] I can, squeeze, a [still grunting, only now wincing too from jamming my hands up in this 3 cubic inch space] tiny 1/4" drive ratchet [Ahhhhhhh!!!] and VOILA! Just like Dennis (iaff84) said. The bolt comes right out. Of course the other side was worse but with some perseverance, the human mind will always win out over a stupid bolt. So the first order of business was to make sure those darn rubber vibration isolators were as centered as possible. Once I did that, Installing both front and back bolts were as easy as pie with that little 1/4" ratchet. Now I re-used the factory muffler clamps, simply because I liked how stout the design and hardware was compared to the aftermarket clamp design and hardware. The left side went on so easy, the right side almost did me in. But again, I didn't give up and finally won [hear Rocky theme music in background].

So there I was looking down at a - "DON'T FORGET TO PUT AIR BACK IN SHOCKS!!!" - was what my wife said as I attempted to start it up and sit on it ( I was so excited, was my excuse ).

Anyway, it looked B.A., and although it didn't sound too B.A. at first after a 60 mile ride the next day it came around nicely. I think it needs to break in some more, and expect it to get louder and snappier sounding. The lift kit made a world of difference. I don't want to promote any unsafe riding habits but I could tell I could take sharper curves at higher speeds than before. And just the overall feel was nicer, more stable. I felt less bogged down in the rear around turns. I am running 40 psi in the shocks so that might have something to do with it too. All I can say is I am no expert and I can notice a huge difference in the way it rides. I know the 1.5" increase in height will come in handy loading and unloading the Trike in and out of my trailer. Especially now with the end caps I bought. Oh, and I tell ya, there are actually two dimensions to consider, the body height, and the muffler bottom height. Since these mufflers are 3.5" diameter and I raised the body 1.5" it's like the mufflers are now 2" higher off the ground. That's a huge improvement over stock. Something to consider if you do a lot of field meet or camp ground driving and the ground is really uneven, or rutted.

So for the sake of saving time, here is a link to some fo the photos I took, and the the two videos. I hope this works for you guys but if not, PM me and I will send it to you in an e-mail. If I knew how to post thumbnails that link you to them I would.........

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/memb...ft-kit-supertrapp-kerker-muffler-install.html

Let me know what you think. Thanks to all of you this was possible!!!

Rob
 
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Oh, I'm keeping those Gear Wrench 8 in 2 ratcheting wrenches, and returning the rest though. They are really nice and will stay on the bike as part of my on-board tools. $30 bucks at Sears. Get you sum!
Rob
 
It is always a pain with the muffler bolts. With me being right handed, I also find the right side hard to do.
Yes, take both brackets off before trying to put a new one on. I also find it hard to read directions till I have a problem.
Enjoy,
Dennis
 
Excellent job, Rob! As corny as it sounds, if there's one thing I like as much as riding my trike, it's modifying it! There's a real sense of accomplishment and satisfaction when you do it yourself.

My mufflers arrived in the mail today. Got a really good deal on some V&H Classic Slip-Ons with billet end-caps. Although designed for pre-2009 touring bikes, I figure they'll make a nice match to my 2012 since I'll be removing the OEM header in favor of a fuelmoto catless head-pipe and TTS tuner. I already have a new SE intake ready to go as well.

Good luck with your new set-up. Too bad that the evil white-stuff will soon be upon the rest of us. We'll just have to be patient until Spring arrives once again.
 
I am still amazed you were able to get a 1/4 socket and wrench to get those rear muffler bolts out..maybe they changed the clearance on the newer bikes..My 2010 I was lucky I had 5/8 clearance between the bolt and the bottom of the box.
 
Great job Rob! I'm glad it turned out well for you. Now you see why most of us do our own work. If you don't already have one, buy a service manual. It's fun doing your routine maint.

I couldn't open the website to see your pics either!
 
Guys,
I just created an album on this site, the photo's that go with my installation process post are here:

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/memb...ft-kit-supertrapp-kerker-muffler-install.html

Unfortunately, to upload them on our site here I had to reduce them even further, and hope they look ok.

I want to wait to upload the videos on You Tube until I can get the mufflers broke in more. As I stated though, in the short 60 miles we rode the day after the install the difference from start to finish was seriously noticeable. And very positive! As long as your goal is to make your Tri-Glide sound meaner and more, for lack of a better term, Outlaw Sounding, then these are great. If you want more performance and a more respectable sound I think they are still acceptable. In no way do they sound obnoxious. I think the look of them alone is worth a thousand words so.....

If I get any more chances before winter finally stops me from riding and they break in more, then I will make a final After video, otherwise it will have to wait until spring of next year.

If you can't wait until then and want to see what I have now, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you a link to a FTP site we run here at work, along with log-on instructions and you can download them from there.

iaff84
It is always a pain with the muffler bolts. well, I hope by centering the rubber isolator it wont be if I ever need to get them off again

Yes, take both brackets off before trying to put a new one on this is so true!. I also find it hard to read directions till I have a problem. I also have a problem with authority figures hehehehe
Enjoy,
Dennis

Rob
 
Excellent job, Rob! Thanks John, I appreciate that. As corny as it sounds........Not corny at all Bro. That is what I love most about being part of the Harley family. I can truly be me and still be accepted LOL

My mufflers arrived in the mail today.........I hope you can use this thread and all the excellent contributions from everyone to ease some of the trouble with those rear support bolts. Although designed for pre-2009 touring bikes, I figure they'll make a nice match to my 2012 since I'll be removing the OEM header in favor of a fuelmoto catless head-pipe and TTS tuner. I already have a new SE intake ready to go as well. Well, you're certainly one up on me and I can't wait to begin and ultimately finish my phase 2

Good luck with your new set-up. Thanks Too bad that the evil white-stuff will soon be upon the rest of us. We'll just have to be patient until Spring arrives once again. Yea, I am currently looking at heated clothing for the Wife. She was adamant about taking that ride the other day but was surprised how quickly she got cold considering how many layers she had on, including H-D waterproof pants/jacket/gloves

Hey, I hope you (and everyone else) do the same and post your experience with the mods here! And don't forget the photos, and video. Maybe I should change the title of this thread to reflect all that has transpired instead. It's certainly more than just a solicitation for opinions on a certain type of muffler now!!! Thanks to all of you.
Rob
 
I am still amazed you were able to get a 1/4 socket and wrench to get those rear muffler bolts out..hey, what can I say, I belong to these forums for a lot of reasons but the biggest one is the knowledge on them. You guys are miles ahead of me in every aspect when it comes to motorcycles, so here I'll stay maybe they changed the clearance on the newer bikes..They must have Mutha, I was surprised myself after all that was said on the subject. My 2010 I was lucky I had 5/8 clearance between the bolt and the bottom of the box. first chance I get I will measure that distance for us all.

On the downside, I need to return some tools to Sears........But I may upgrade my 1/4" drive ratchet to a precision version so it is more efficient.;)

Rob
 
On the downside, I need to return some tools to Sears........But I may upgrade my 1/4" drive ratchet to a precision version so it is more efficient.;)

Rob
I am glad all worked out for you..after checking out your pics ,it does look like you have a lot more clearance than my bike had.. I know they changed something on the back ends starting in the 2011 model years..but bascially it the same setup..
 

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