Mighty Mite install
Okay ... so I decided to do the install the
Mighty Mites, even though it was cloudy and might rain. The weather guessers said no, but, those guys I trust less than politicians.
Okay ... so you get a nice package of "info" that says read all this before you proceed" or words to that effect. So I did ... twenty years of actual military service and prior to that being a military dependent have trained me to follow orders ... doesn't mean I actually will follow the instructions ... LOL.
Removed the horn and the wires from the clip. Removed the rubber mount. The instructions said to use heat to loosen the red locktite. I didn't need to ... I just put a vise grip on the rubber near the bracket and it loosened right up. There was a ton of red locktite on the threads ... maybe why it came off so easy ... too much?
As is my norm whenever I remove something with red locktite on it and sometimes blue locktite ... I chased the threads with a tap. if you look close at the top of the engine below the tap, you can see lots of red.
So, following the instructions I put the horn back together using the heavy bracket, screws and spacers provided. Forgot to get a pic of that. The new screws are none too long for the top mount where the wire clip goes. I could not get it to start until I put the bottom one in and got it started and snugged up. After that, I was able to get it in and tightened down. Tightened them all down.
I installed the new rubber vibration damper with red locktite. I then put red locktite on the 5/16" nut threads and tightened it up.
Next you have to hold your mouth just right to get the "Love Jugs" spacer, the mighty mites bracket, the horn bracket with the horn and wire installed, the SS washer included and then the acorn nut. This would be a lot easier if
Love Jugs choose to just use a washer instead of taking the opportunity for advertising ... I get it ... just trying to get all the parts in place while trying to align the "spacer" is a tad challenging (the "Love Jugs" Logo kept slipping down and taking up some some of the needed space to get the nut on ... or course ... it just might be I have little to no patients ... LOL. After I got them all in place and lined up ... kind of like the "advertising", even if the exact same thing is on the bracket ...
So at this point I left everything snug but not tight and routed the wires. Not too challenging. I did use the fuel hose to hold the wires off the engine, as well as, the spark plug wire for the rear cylinder (I really didn't want to take the tank off ... LOL).
Here you can see the Power Vision connection in the top "diagnostic" plug and the Mighty Mites "adapter" in the accessory port.
Some more wire routing cleanup.
As always when I install an accessory that requires I remove something OEM, I put all the pieces associated with that job in a zip lock bag with "extra parts" from the installed accessory, in this case the electrical I didn't use. I gotta tell you, I love plug and play electrical installs ... sure saves my screw drivers from "accidental welding".
I then tightened all the bolts down. In this case it was just the acorn nut. I then wiped everything down with alcohol to get my greasy finger prints off before I fired it up. If those finger prints get hot, they are there to stay .. don't ask how I know ... :AGGHH:
Okay ... so I turned the key and nada ... hmmm ... yep ... the switch was off ... LOL. Turned it on and voila, two little jet engines fired up ... LOL. First time I've ever been glad the engine makes a little noise. That humming would maybe get a tad annoying if you could hear it.
A few words about the instructions. I'm a picture guy. Instead of using "their words" to explain the order of the screws, spacers and the like, pictures would have helped me. Also, the instructions caution you about not over tightening the acorn nut, but, don't give torgue values (the shop manual says 80-120 in pounds). I know ... nit picking, but, if I didn't have a shop manual I would have or could have over tightened it, or under tighten it. I suspect they didn't want to list all the torque values, but, I think the instructions should have said "See shop manual for torque specs".
Okay ... so I went to do a road test. First impressions, I didn't notice any difference in the temps the Power Vision saw. I did a 20 mile ride that included 10 mile in the beginning of 40-55 mph riding, then 10 miles of returning at 75 mph. Engine temp never got over 200* as read by the Power Vision. Maybe I should point out that the ambient temp was 44* ... LOL. I suspect the real test will be when I get in the Nevada desert ..
. (sorry ... couldn't resist)
P.S. I'm glad I didn't pay the extra $$ for the frame mount. I think the horn mount, especially with their extra strength bracket backer and heavy duty rubber damper make it pretty secure. Do the fans vibrate a little at idle, sure, but, I don't think it's enough to cause any damage. I can see where it might be an issue on an engine that is more powerful or has cams and vibrates a little more than mine.