i also have a '09 t/g. thus far i have added the s&s 510 gear cam, (eliminates the cam shoe) also put in a fueling oil pressure spring. this upped my oil pressure 12 at indle and 55 psi anywhere above idle. S&S likes that idea because the gear cam has cage bearings;thus needing instant oil pressure at start-up. i did this at 11k on the bike 18.8k now and am very satisfied with the performance. stock exhaust etc. and i did the revolution performance
EFI . lately i had the baker 5.5 oil pan installed. but only get 4.5 qts oil with filter change.
AND aaannnnnnddddddddddd the belt rubs the oil pan as the new oil pan is thicker than the oil one. hasn't really hurt the belt, just rubed the paint off. so if you one you might hit the lt. side with a belt sander. i e-mailed baker the pics. and put them on this site under
"'09 t/g install baker plus oil pan) but never heard back from them. that was thanksgiving time. so i only have about 100 mi. on bike since so while i was installing the performance machine stage 1 brake system i tryed to hand sand that area,while the trike was jacked-up. i really like the p/m stage 1. hope this helps. lb if you do the tooth sproket replacement, you need to get the speedometer corrected.
"09 t/g install p/m stage 1
m stage 1 rear brakes
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the rear master cyl was easily removed. i just took off the brake pedal. got the brake lines run. now waiting for the new r/disc to come in on sat.
has anybody removed the rear axles? the p/m kit has new disc mounting ring, and the axle has to be removed to install it. as per manual the axle either come off easy or use a slide hammer.in my seeing things if you mark the axle relative to the housing then remove the axle the splines should line up when re-installing the axle. any other opinions appreciated.thanks no slideing hammer needed to remove axle. red thread locker on bolts. didn't have any trouble removeing them toqque 41-45* , but did have to use map gas to heat up 1 bolt. there is red threadlocker on the ft. disc brake bolts, so heat them up before removeing then. also buy (8) new 3/8x1 1/4, 24 thread bolts and grade 8 nuts ,
and you can get a 9/16" open-end wrench to tighten them up. the "T" bolts fit snug against the axle. and same only 1" for disc bolts. the axle are thru bolts (no threads in axle) OEM uses T bolts, so you can get a 14 MM socket on the nuts. grade 8 nuts work better when installing.. dealer has no nuts or bolts in stock, so preplan for this.also before you run the brake lines wrap the ends in k-mart bags & use a bread tie- to secure it. this will prevent any dirt fron getting into the lines. the i use 1/4x28 speedbleeders ( sb1428-ss 1/4x28)for the front and 3/8x24
sb3824-ss for the rears. Ss is stainless. had 1 front. bleeder that wouldn't go in, so i wire brushed the threads, then ok. tomorrow to install calipers, and bleed. i use DOT super blue 15.00 per ltr. and the next time amber colored brake fluid. available on line.when you route the brake lines hook upborh rear calipers but leave the nuts looose for alinement purposes later , then 2 rear lines to the line leading to the brake sensor. start from the very back and route the line to just over swing arm & to the rear of rt side cover. ft line install it to the brake resivor first then route the line along the lower frame. pull the line toward you and install the brake switch and tighten the line to the rear line. p/m master cylinder takes a 5/32 allen wrench