Engine Date

[Diamondtrike]

Yeah 50 pages of going from Heavily Modified

To Super Heavily Modified...

Its gonna be an amazing machine when you get done!

 

[stinger608]

With the gland nut being spot welded, I'd change it! Don't rely on that one. Welding it could have taken the temper out of the metal.

Also keep in mind; Gland nut torque is at least 254 foot-pounds.

I grabbed this amazing tool a couple of years ago to remove/install gland nuts and axle nuts:

http://carcraftstore.com/torquemultilplier.aspx

At $80 I couldn't pass it up. The simplicity was worth every penny.

 

[Diamondtrike]

With the gland nut being spot welded, I'd change it! Don't rely on that one. Welding it could have taken the temper out of the metal.

Also keep in mind; Gland nut torque is at least 254 foot-pounds.

I grabbed this amazing tool a couple of years ago to remove/install gland nuts and axle nuts:

http://carcraftstore.com/torquemultilplier.aspx

At $80 I couldn't pass it up. The simplicity was worth every penny.

Yes I plan on getting a new gland nut, washer, rear main seal, fly wheel o ring, and a clutch fork bushing kit. I just need to find a decent place to buy the parts from that wont cost an arm and a leg lol. I have access to a torque wrench that measures up to 400ftlbs so 250 wont be a problem lol :clapping:.

 

[vwbug72501]

A torque wrench + a 4 ft. pipe will get the job done. You will have to have one of these to hold the flywheel:

https://www.ebay.com/i/300948206040?chn=ps&dispItem=1

A BIG friend to step on the engine to keep it from flipping over during the torquing process helps too.

Make sure you have shims on the crankshaft between the rear main thrust surface and the flywheel surface. This is how the crankshaft end play is set. When you get the new parts, check and set the end play BEFORE you install the rear main seal. Minimizes the chances of boogering up the new seal.

 

[Diamondtrike]

yea i will definently look into one

 

[stinger608]

yea i will definently look into one

Yep, you will need a flywheel lock for sure.

 

[Diamondtrike]

I just found another number on the side of the transaxle and cannot find it in any charts that would help pin the year down any better. it is a stamped number just below the case number, it appears to be 3976877. anyone have any chart that would cover this trans number?

 

[stinger608]

I just found another number on the side of the transaxle and cannot find it in any charts that would help pin the year down any better. it is a stamped number just below the case number, it appears to be 3976877. anyone have any chart that would cover this trans number?

I just did some searching and couldn't come up with anything using that number. I'm wondering if that wasn't a rebuilders number or something similar.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

If you did not miss any numbers....

1961, 6volt, 4.375:1 six bolt ring and pinion, short axle.

Stinger.....look at his engine pic.....

Has a 1200 (pre 66) carb and 67 generator.

I thought it looked like a 1300/1500 single port.

Whatcha think?

 

[stinger608]

If you did not miss any numbers....

1961, 6volt, 4.375:1 six bolt ring and pinion, short axle.

Stinger.....look at his engine pic.....

Has a 1200 (pre 66) carb and 67 generator.

I thought it looked like a 1300/1500 single port.

Whatcha think?

I did see the pictures and totally agree, I believe it's a pre 66 1200. I did notice the 12 volts 67 gen on it.

With that said, I'm betting the transaxle and engine were out of the same donor car and someone had the 67 generator to make the 12-volt conversion.

However, with the inside of the bell housing being ground out, I'm guessing the went with a 12-volt flywheel and starter. No other reason to grind the bell housing out.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

It is definitely a mix and match.

If it is a 61 trans he will need some tall tires for the highway.

 

[vwbug72501]

If its a mix and match as I believe it to be then, with a trans that old it might have had a 12v engine hanging off of it at some time in its life. Hence the ground out bellhousing. I agree that it was probably a 6v engine with a 12v generator conversion for better lighting, etc. Is it a 1200 or 1300? As far as I know, the heads are the best wary to tell. I can't tell from the picture but are the intake manifold mounting flanges cast on the end of the tube or are they separate, captive flanges? Cast flanges = 1200 heads.

If it is a 1200 (40HP) engine then it will not have cam bearings as the case was the cam bearing journals on those engines. Back in the day, we had a guy that could align bore the 40HP cases for cam bearings like the 1300/1500/1600 cases. I don't know if that was common practice anywhere else. I was in Memphis back then.

I wouldn't expect much, if any longevity for the engine if it is a 1200. When you get it running be sure to attach an oil gauge to the engine and carefully monitor the oil pressure as it warms up and, after warm, the oil pressure at idle. If the cases are worn (common at this vintage) the oil pressure will drop off dramatically and dangerously at idle.

If you have good oil pressure the cases may be more valuable to the VW restorers and they might be good trading parts toward a more modern engine. Check on thesamba.com.

 

[vwbug72501]

Just had a thought. I believe that the 66 1300 had a 1 year only crankshaft. 69mm stroke and 6v flywheel step on crank.

Can somebody fact check me on this?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes.

66 was a big odd transition year.

First half of the year was a mix of old stuff and current year.

Second half of 66 was a mix of current year and what was coming out the next year.

I want to say his looks like a 66 to 70 single port.

I look at the mount flange at head.

The 1200 flange is level.

The 13-1600 flange is tilted at an angle.

 

[Diamondtrike]

It is definitely a mix and match.

If it is a 61 trans he will need some tall tires for the highway.

By what I am seeing I think it is the 1300-1600 single port because the manifold flange seems to be tilted.

Correct me if im wrong please

as far as the tall tires, im not even sure what size the tires are. They have GR60-14, but I haven't found an exact match to current tire sizes for the them.

When I say it has been ground out it could just be tooling marks from the factory, im not really sure.

 

[Diamondtrike]

This is the only picture I have right now with the marks that I see, I will get a couple of more tomorrow evening.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes that does look newer than the 1200.

Concerns over having a 1200 carb on a larger engine.

I would make sure it is not running lean.

Yes that is a normal machine tooled area.

And that is one of the spots a 12v flywheel hits.

 

[Diamondtrike]

Yes that does look newer than the 1200.

Concerns over having a 1200 carb on a larger engine.

I would make sure it is not running lean.

Yes that is a normal machine tooled area.

And that is one of the spots a 12v flywheel hits.

So im looking at probably a 66 1300-1600 single port with a 1200 carb on it? also it has never had the 200m flywheel on it. Am I reading this right? I know this probably a dumb question but how can i tell if it is running lean with the smaller carb? (I am a mechanic by trade but we dont deal with many carburated engines) will i be able to get that small of a carb to be ok on that large of an engine or do i need to swap in a large carb?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

If it is a 66 1300cc the carb probably is not that bad. If it is a 67 1500cc or the 68 to 70 1600cc then it is likely to be very lean. You will notice right away as it will bog with acceleration and run hot at cruise. Sorta like low pressure on fuel injection.

 

[Diamondtrike]

If it is a 66 1300cc the carb probably is not that bad. If it is a 67 1500cc or the 68 to 70 1600cc then it is likely to be very lean. You will notice right away as it will bog with acceleration and run hot at cruise. Sorta like low pressure on fuel injection.

Im guessing the only way to find the actual size of the engine (CC) is to tear it down and measure the cylinders? or is there an easier way?