Has anyone changed the differential oil on a HT1800; doing the work yourself? If so, please tell me how you did it. My kit is a 2011. I've got 50,000 on my kit now and want to change the oil.
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I'll be following this thread, SolidBob had a method, but not I cannot find the post. That area of the trike is a dog to get to, my nearest trike shop is almost 2 hours, and hard on the wallet.
Has anyone changed the differential oil on a HT1800; doing the work yourself? If so, please tell me how you did it. My kit is a 2011. I've got 50,000 on my kit now and want to change the oil.
Hello- There is a brass drain plug in the bottom of the diff. Use a allen wrench to remove and drain, then replace brass plug. Take out threaded fill plug before draining then with a long transmission funnel, add NO MORE than 1(one) quart of 80w90 gear lube. That amount will fill diff. to about 1 inch below inspection/fill hole. Thats where it should be." Keep- on- Ridin"
Hello- There is a brass drain plug in the bottom of the diff. Use a allen wrench to remove and drain, then replace brass plug. Take out threaded fill plug before draining then with a long transmission funnel, add NO MORE than 1(one) quart of 80w90 gear lube. That amount will fill diff. to about 1 inch below inspection/fill hole. Thats where it should be." Keep- on- Ridin"
Bringing this thread back up with some tips.
I just did the rear gear oil change on my 1800 Roadsmith.
Here are a few tips that might make it easier for those wanting to do this:
1. A swivel socket extension is your friend in order to remove that 1" fill plug.
2. An outboard motor plastic gear oil pump (Walmart?) makes filling the chunk a breeze. Actually, I see no other way to get the new fluid in there without it. FYI: It will not pump in the full quart, so I added an additional amount of fluid to the bottle to compensate for what originally remained in the bottom after the pump quit pumping and that worked out to get a full quart in there.
3. One of those small telescoping magnets (Harbor Freight?) to the center of the fill plug will make it easier to reinstall and start the threads properly. It's a pain otherwise trying to get your fingers in there to hold & turn it with the frame in the way.
4. Just a tiny pin-head sized drop of BLUE (not red) Loctite to the drain hex plug threads gives that little bit of extra assurance it's not gonna vibrate loose.
Hopefully, this helps someone down the road.
LJ
Is there room to get on your back get and up under there, or did you jack yours up a bit? I've been dreading that job. Car ramps maybe?
Many thanks for that kind offer, nice ride to LA might not be so bad, looks like a bear of a job if you ya don't have the right tools, etc. I was thinking car ramps since I have them, but then would the oil drain? I'm thinking the drain is on the rear, the trike would be uneven toward the front. I need to give this some thought.
Hello- There is a brass drain plug in the bottom of the diff. Use a allen wrench to remove and drain, then replace brass plug. Take out threaded fill plug before draining then with a long transmission funnel, add NO MORE than 1(one) quart of 80w90 gear lube. That amount will fill diff. to about 1 inch below inspection/fill hole. Thats where it should be." Keep- on- Ridin"
Some very good tips here. I've had my RS only since last Sept. Is there a good place to put a Jack to raise rear end?
M2102 - you can use the lower shock mount (coil-over shock), the main 2-1/2" main cross-tube, or the 1/4" steel differential mounting plate. Do NOT lift using the driveshaft, the differential, nor the differential stabilizer bars. As with any of these types of jobs, be certain everything is secure before starting maintenance. Let me know if you need more info or help!
Jim
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