Mobil 1 15w50
- Thread starter usmc68
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John Luciano
One Of The Origionals , TOI - New England
Should work fine normally the 15/50 is for colder climates. Since you will not be starting the motorcycle in below freezing temp. The 1st number is really meaningless. The 50 is the lubrication number at normal operating temp.
10w 40 had a bad reputation. Seems the additive used the make the oil to go from 10 to 40 was causing a lot of carbon sticky buildup. That is what I was told by the Bearing engineers in the test lab in the bearing plant I worked in for 38 years. We'll that is my story and I am sticking to it
I use 10w 30
10w 40 had a bad reputation. Seems the additive used the make the oil to go from 10 to 40 was causing a lot of carbon sticky buildup. That is what I was told by the Bearing engineers in the test lab in the bearing plant I worked in for 38 years. We'll that is my story and I am sticking to it
I use 10w 30
Pay the extra for the V-Twin . Changing the oil is one of the cheapest things you will ever do. A days ride cost more than an oil change.
Mobil 1 changed their formulation a while back on their standard oils. I believe they lowered the zinc level and IIRC the gallon jugs that used to be gold cap, aren't anymore, and are no longer rated for diesel engines. If you read the manual, it states any oil that is diesel rated can be used (of the correct viscosity). I don't think the standard Mobil 1 fits that anymore, while the V-Twin certainly does.
You want to use a engine oil with a high concentration of both zinc & phosphorus additives.
VTwin 20W50 Mobil1 has the highest amount added. The 15w50 is lower. The zddp (zinc) & phosphorus additives higher in amount help with reducing thermal breakdown of the oil under high heat stress.
Due to the nature of our engines being air cooled and the hot burn of un leaded fuel your best to get a SJ rated engine oil.
VTwin 20W50 Mobil1 has the highest amount added. The 15w50 is lower. The zddp (zinc) & phosphorus additives higher in amount help with reducing thermal breakdown of the oil under high heat stress.
Due to the nature of our engines being air cooled and the hot burn of un leaded fuel your best to get a SJ rated engine oil.
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:Agree:
To be honest, any name brand 20-50 syn oil will be fine as long as you change it at the correct interval-and use a new filter.
If you change every 3K miles stay with dino oil - it's cheaper, but in the long run syn is cheaper. Syn oil is made to go 5K+ miles. ThumbUp
What particular change are you expecting to see/experience between the Mobil1 and the Amsoil?? Both oil are great products and I seriously doubt you will be able to experience any difference!
Roger
Hopefully I won't be able to tell any difference. The Mobil 1 is just any Wal-Mart away while Amsoil is hard to find out on the road . I'm plan to use the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w 50 in the engine and primary and mobil 1 75w140 syn. in the transmission . Will V-Twin 20w50 be ok for primary??
Any Dino 10w40 or Dino 20w50 is better. The 20W50 Mobil1 Synthetic oil isn't wet clutch rated. Just change the primary with each engine oil change and you will be good.
If you need oil while out on the road, you can throw in a quart of any 20-50 syn oil and not worry one bit. I always carry a quart of oil on all my trips. Never had to use it though. I buy my oil by the case (cheaper) and the warehouse is just down the street from my shop so I don't have to pay shipping, plus I get a small stipend back at the end of the month.
I also agree that you probably won't notice any significant change between the brands of same viscosity oils. ThumbUp
so are you saying it is OK to run Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 in the primary??
A significant contingent of riders/bikers on another forum I use to frequent when I was riding my 2008 Ultra (w/120r crate motor) found that the H-D Dino Primary Oil was best to use in the primary. This was determined due to less fretting of the compensator. The various oils tried was the Redline, Amsoil, Syn3, etc.. It appeared the synthetics did not do a good job lubricating the Compensator.
However, this year, H-D came out with a new compensator that has a kinda unique oiling system that appears to work!! Although I did install the new compensator in my Trike a few months ago, school is still out regarding the success of the new design. However, I personally will stick with the H-D Dino Primary oil at this time!!
Roger
Here is a link from Mobil on the subject: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Harley_Davidson_Primary_Drive.aspx
I use Mobil, mainly because of the wally world availability and we use their products at work. I did not ask the question above but I run the 10w40 in my 2008 FLHTP and the wife's 2011 Tri Glide primary. And a Mobil Syn 75 to 125 (I think thats the weight) gear oil, it quiets down the gear noise. Mobil1 V Twin 20w50 in the engine.
I don't mind running three oils, they do three different things. But for convenience the 20w50 Mobil1 is good in all three holes. And I think if you really dig on their web site the 20w50 is all they will recommend for v twins in any hole. I was surprised to find the above statement from them unless they have since backed off that claim.
Keep in mind your primary capacity. The dealer has done it to the Tri Glide as well as myself. It needs 38 Oz. not 32. 32 made it hard to get in gear I drained and refilled the tranny a few times before I referenced the manual and found the mistake. 38 in the primary made it shift like butter when the 32 would not. I was thinking it was a tranny oil issue. It was the Primary being low. I have a range of year model Harleys and sometimes specs run together, at least in my mind. Always read your manual.
Thanks for the link . Since I already have enough V-Twin 20w 50 to do engine and primary I'm going to put it in the primary also. I will try the 10 w40 next time I do the primary . I was in Your Town Murfreesboro a couple of weeks ago heading to Smokie Mts.. Yesterday I got a Letter from the city of Murfreesboro Tn. with a pic of the rear of my trike and They wanted $50.00 for it IT"S not that good a pic---! I don't think it's worth that amount But I think I'll purchase it because they said it would go up in value if I don't take their Now. (Stinking left turn red lights and being tailgunner of 6 bikes didn't work ) I hope that's the only pic they took!!!
It's not recommended. The 20w50 is no longer JASO-MA rated for wet clutch applications as of 2012. Mobil1 4T 10w40 is rated for wet clutch applications and can be used in your primary
Damn, you got caught by one of the photo booth cameras. Only 3 or 4 around. I've been lucky I guess. Would I be correct to say that it was a photo of your license plate? Was it 231 or 41? Also I'd argue it for the fact it's legal to go thrue red lights here,(stop and go) because the bikes don't trip the lights. Not to mention the fact you were running shotgun.
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