Before I

wow, it does hurt and a painful process, that agreed. Apparently the force I went down with shattered the cup into 3 peices and all worried how to do things. Found out my past years of medication has changed my bone density, so I can not be screwed together, maybe glued together,lol.

I can only do as they say and pray for the best. Surgery is still on the table, but have to see how part of me heels first, and if needed or will it benefit the injury.

Be safe, ride even safer my friends.:D
 
I had a check up yesterday, healing is doing good. I did some muscle damage, no nerve damage, so once all soft tissue heals and I can move more, than we see if surgery is needed. This will take to damn long, but yesterday I counted my blessings because I am alive.

Okay I have tried to get something done. Setting rockers and measuring distance's for proper fitting of the shoulder bolts, and how all sets on the axle. Not the best, but it has given me something to do. Soon I hope I can polish more.:)
 
It has been three weeks since the shoulder injury, well the checkup should healing and what not, so now I am doing light physical therapy at home on my own. I am waiting for the appt. with the local physical therapist, but at least I have something to do with my time during the day now, LOL.

Have been playing with the rear pivot bolt of rockers. Trying to get that fine clearance that allows the rocker to move, but it is not been working for me. Limited shim thickness, so I play with the combinations of the two sizes trying to get it right.

So looks like to get this magic clearance I will have to file down, or sand, the bronze washer until I get that fine clearance that is needed.

Now I am not a fan of these Nordic lock washers, at least at this stage they do not seem to grip and hold like they claim, but all my act different under the load of the fork tubes pushing down and the wheel pulling the rockers upward. I can tighten them so they do not move, but it is to tight for rocker movement. First things first, need to get that fine clearance and than see how all will react. I figured I would just lay the washer between to sanding blocks and work them back and forth to remove material, should work and worth the try.

:D Good morning to everyone, so I re read the section on rockers and the shoulder bolt and the way I am using them. I am suppose to have a little shoulder bolt shaft extend out of the rocker bushing, one side has very little exposed bolt shaft, just enough for the bronze washer to hang on, so I figured a few shims, but my I forgot the smaller size steel washer of the threaded section. This steel washer push's up against the shims so all is tight, but a fine clearance is needed for the rocker to move properly.

The other side is too short, not right, and that tube's pivot flange is a bit thicker than I wanted, at least I am getting somewhere with it all.
 
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The fun has begun. So in playing more I discovered that the rear pivot holes in the down tubes are not as tight as they should be, so it was enough to allow me to be off when setting those rear shoulder bolts, not at first but after some rocker movement things change that slight amount. Those I can not get the axle to feed smoothly thru all correctly.

Amazing how tight I got all figured out and how just a bit larger than planned can screw things up.

Still waiting to hear back on what we are going to do to fix the issue.
 
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So I had to do something, but it all had to be done with the left arm and very little help with the right hand, at least at first.

Today the right side has gotten a little bit free in movement, some home physical therapy is working apparently.

Fenderbrace.jpg

The fork bars are not at a 48 degree angle, so all does not really look like it will when all attached to trike.

The reaction arm for the brake stay turns out to be a bit to wide to mount on the inner side of the stay which than allowed a straight alignment to the inside of the fork bar, mounted it to the outside for now and if this is how it will mount I will have to have a offset reaction arm so either inner or outer side of fork bar. A super low profile head shoulder bolt just might allow it to mount on the inner side of the stay, something I need to check out.

The entire set up should look close to this position, the brake setup will be centered above axle and fender's exact location probably is more set by the pivot links at the top of the fender, still need to get them. Seen a kit on ebay for 79,77, and 59.00 dollars, but none are listed for a narrow glide front end, so I wonder about making what is needed.

pivotkit.jpg

Big helpful answer that I need...………. How does one attach the metal fender support arm to the fiberglass metal ?

Oh I am sure of a few ways, but more looking for the recommended better way.

My mind said a solid support that actually bent over the tire and down to the other side, a large U shape. As the fender does have a center mounting hole that I thought I would use to anchor the two parts together. Glass fill over the top area so all could be shaped nicely and hide it.

Or do this, but shortly after coming out of the fender, say a inch or so, you have the straight upright support bolt to the cut off edge of the fender's center support bracket. This would allow the assembly of it all to be a bit easier, just the same maybe taking it off later.

I personally like the idea of the fender and support arms being all one piece. And yes I am choosing to go with two upright support arms off the axle bearing hub spacers, I just never thought about going off the brake stay and a look I did not care for.

so is there a secure way for me to attach a left and right support arm to the inside of the fiber glass fender.

Do you just use some cat hair and resin and coat it into place, or cloth and resin over the metal after securing it , bolts and nut's, or a super adhesive and than the cloth and resin work ???
 
Gramps

How weird??? I was just looking at your thread at the same time I got your e from trike talk, :laugh: I was looking at this in my yahoo search, Springer disc set up.jpgAre you going to make the fg fender? or buy it off the internet? I bought mine from a Glasser at a swap meet he has all sizes so just told him the width that was needed and I trimmed to fit, some extra glassing needed for the mounting area and a metal plate inside for extra strength, painted the inside flat black... BUTT I am one for looks in my builds and I do not like the look of the caliper in the photo but the photo shows the mounting of all...I hope this helps if not hit me up again no problem...
 
I dunno.....

If I remember correctly my original goldwing fender, which was on goldwing forks, had a steel liner riveted around the inside of it.

On my springer I chose a metal fender to work with.
 
Do you just use some cat hair and resin and coat it into place, or cloth and resin over the metal after securing it , bolts and nut's, or a super adhesive and than the cloth and resin work ???

Check with a body shop about the panel adhesive that they use to bond panels on cars. A lot of parts on the newer cars are glued on.
 
So I had to do something, but it all had to be done with the left arm and very little help with the right hand, at least at first.

Today the right side has gotten a little bit free in movement, some home physical therapy is working apparently.

View attachment 70589

The fork bars are not at a 48 degree angle, so all does not really look like it will when all attached to trike.

The reaction arm for the brake stay turns out to be a bit to wide to mount on the inner side of the stay which than allowed a straight alignment to the inside of the fork bar, mounted it to the outside for now and if this is how it will mount I will have to have a offset reaction arm so either inner or outer side of fork bar. A super low profile head shoulder bolt just might allow it to mount on the inner side of the stay, something I need to check out.

The entire set up should look close to this position, the brake setup will be centered above axle and fender's exact location probably is more set by the pivot links at the top of the fender, still need to get them. Seen a kit on ebay for 79,77, and 59.00 dollars, but none are listed for a narrow glide front end, so I wonder about making what is needed.

View attachment 70604

Big helpful answer that I need...………. How does one attach the metal fender support arm to the fiberglass metal ?

Oh I am sure of a few ways, but more looking for the recommended better way.

My mind said a solid support that actually bent over the tire and down to the other side, a large U shape. As the fender does have a center mounting hole that I thought I would use to anchor the two parts together. Glass fill over the top area so all could be shaped nicely and hide it.

Or do this, but shortly after coming out of the fender, say a inch or so, you have the straight upright support bolt to the cut off edge of the fender's center support bracket. This would allow the assembly of it all to be a bit easier, just the same maybe taking it off later.

I personally like the idea of the fender and support arms being all one piece. And yes I am choosing to go with two upright support arms off the axle bearing hub spacers, I just never thought about going off the brake stay and a look I did not care for.

so is there a secure way for me to attach a left and right support arm to the inside of the fiber glass fender.

Do you just use some cat hair and resin and coat it into place, or cloth and resin over the metal after securing it , bolts and nut's, or a super adhesive and than the cloth and resin work ???
It is NOT a good idea to mix resin and adhesives with each other even when they are dried, I would stick with the resin and make sure a rough grit wheel or sanding paper (like 16 grit) and clean surfaces or the glass will not bond very well, good luck and I will be watching this very nice build...
 
Welcome to the month of May, and good morning to all.

Yes, I am alive, kinda, lol

So the hurt shoulder is healing, but to many doctor visits and one of them sent me home sick as shit. VA hospital is known for this and normally I can avoid it. 2 weeks of recovery to this point, cold sweat's at night have gotten to me, but doing better and feel kinda normal this AM.

Some how I did trace out my pattern for the fender supports, yes need to double check all is right before cutting them out, but trying to get things done. Be safe and enjoy the weather as you enjoy the ride.:D
 
And a good morning to you as well Andy. Glad you're doing a lil better. Yea this "getting old" stuff is for the birds. I haven't used the VA yet but i'm sure I will in the near future, private health ins. getting crazy.



Just wanted to say I think you're doing a great job on the trike. Wish I had your patience. I usually try to go too fast then end up re-doing it later. Keep pushing forward and never give up, seems you know this already, lol.
 
Good morning, it has been great weather here in NV, here the rumble going down the Freeway and miss it all to much. The Trike does not rumble like a HD, but it does have it's own music it makes.Okay, wow, I had this idea and apparently ordered the metal and traced out the design, than some where in the madness I actually set up my drill press, so I std drilling out the 1" dia. hole in the bracket. It is 3/16" thick SS, why, well my paper work says I am suppose to grind down an area to 1/16" thick, this will create a lip, saddle if you like, that the fender can rest in. The thinner 1 / 16 thick area is what is up inside the fender and what is used for attaching the two together, than some fiber glass work and all should be awesome. Recovery is doing well. Finally getting over the bug and feeling normal, cough is a pain, but it is life, shoulder is better and ready for the physical therapy which starts on MONDAY and it is 3 to 4 times a week, at least for month of May.Please stay healthy and ride safe my friends.
 
Good luck Andy....jump thru the hoops and hopefully that shoulder will turn out just fine.
 
Thanks Larry, I do have to find my patience again, LOL. Drilling this material is a art and one has to have patience, or it is a costly task. To many set backs can be upsetting, but I have to get right before I go forward anymore. Spend the time and energy on getting myself back, mentally and physically.

Enjoy the weather and fine rides my friends. :D
 
wow, a week has went by already.

I have gotten most of the first fender support cut out and the grinder has gotten me with in a 1/16th or so of the lines, so almost done with one, LOL

I can not work to long before a break is needed. Health is back, just need to take all slow. PT is good, in fact another Ortho doc fist tomorrow. I just hope all is healing they way it should. I will try to remember pictures next post.

Be safe my friends.
 
Good morning, first thing is that I skipped a week on the calander and that is how I lost 7 days. My Ortho doc appt is on the 23rd of May.

Doing good and home PT is great.

I did get more work done shapping my support, hope to be done today and I will take pic's.

:p
 
It has taken me much longer to get things done, but I do have the right hand fender support done. I did change up a little on the pattern as I worked out this first support. Now I will use it as the pattern for the left hand support.

20190601_073946.jpg

The strap was 3 feet long and I used a cut off blade with the chop saw. A few heat marks as I was a bit short on patience that day.

20190601_074043.jpg

I know I will need to spend more time finishing them out, but it will look good I think. Yes the 3/16" was a bit thick for supports, but I had an idea of what I wanted to do and I hope it all works out, so far all is good.

Enjoy the ride, please ride safe.:D
 

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