I have posted brake problem in another post. I haven’t turned wrenches in a few years. When I work on my brakes if I remember you start farthest from the master cylinder. My question is what do you do to get air from the split at the wheels. Just want advice from experience.
Need advice from seasoned mechanically inclined
- Thread starter Kook
- Start date
I like the bleeder systems that "push" fluid from the wheels up to the master cylinder, air wants to go up anyway. Also check the service manual, there's usually a bleeding procedure in them.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
Do NOT do this with any ABS system, bad JU JU will happen just a word of caution from years of experience with hydraulic systems
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What do you mean @ the split at the wheels? Does your trike have 1 line running to the back with a street fitting with separate lines going to each wheel? If so air will always rise over the fluid to the highest point of the system so you should be good to go bleeding each wheel keeping your master cylinder full during bleeding. If you feel the need to pump the brakes use slow and only 1/2 the stroke of the master cylinder to avoid rolling the internal seal. Pumping with fast strokes promotes more bubbles
jjvw
700+ Posts
I have a 05 Road Star with a Champion kit. I could never get my back brake to work, no matter how I bleed it. The master is designed to handle one caliper but being asked to handle two! It's six years ago so I don't know where on Ebay I found a larger one . With a few mounting mods, it works so good, I rarely use the front brake. It's progressive enough that I can even use it as a trailing brake in the twisties.
Looks like it needs to be repainted. Its only six years old.
Looks like it needs to be repainted. Its only six years old.
Ok I am not used to bike parts but what is it and where to start looking for one?
The master is the one that worked with the old trike kit! Don’t know what is the problem. :gah::gah:
jjvw
700+ Posts
what was the old kit?
It had the old Champion straight axle on it. We could never get it to work properly with the DNA AXLE though. They used original frame of the kit and basically just changed the axle.
After I jack it up and change the bleeders am gonna try it myself. Can’t F I U any more than it is!
After I jack it up and change the bleeders am gonna try it myself. Can’t F I U any more than it is!
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
R U making any progress?
Well, changed bleeders, replaced line seals reblead brakes, got pedal but haven’t been able to test it out yet!
After I changed the line seals I still had a leak. I examined the line ends and there were scars on the top line which might cause a leak. I used ultra fine sandpaper and lots of time pretty well smoothing them out. I reassembled them and there seems to be no leaks. Now I am having a hard time getting pedal. Need help y’all! Any advice could come in handy!
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
Remove cover on master cylinder, keep it topped off with fluid. Open rear bleeders and let gravity pull out the air. If you pump the brakes use slow and only pump about 1/2 the stroke. Any faster pumping will churn up more air bubbles. Using 1/2 stroke during pumping will ensure you do not roll the seal in the master cylinder. Good Luck
Sidecarbill
400+ Posts
You will have trouble getting a pedal if there's not enough play to allow the bypass port to open.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
That could be his original problem with the rear brake locking up he reported a while back
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Gene, you may also try tieing down the rear brake pedal about 1/4 of the travel during the gravity bleed. This will ensure the comp port in the master cylinder is opened
Lee H. Mann
Gone But Not Forgotten
I have read the thread and I am not sure that the M/C has been properly bled.
Next, bleed the caliper with the shortest line first (probably requires an assistant).
Does your system have a 'residual check valve' in it ??
You should achieve pedal pressure at this point.
If the pedal seems to pump up, slowly re-bleed the wheels again.
If you leave unattended and return later to find you have no pedal, residual check valve time.
Hope this helps.
A picture of the caliper mounted would really help too.
- Disconnect the line at the back of the M/C.
- Fill the reservoir with fluid.
- Take your finger and place over the hole where the line connects.
- With the other hand, slowly depress the pedal until you feel pressure.
- Release your finger slightly to allow the fluid under pressure to escape.
- Once the full stroke has been achieved, seal the hole with your finger again.
- Release the pedal and allow the M/C to recharge itself (5 seconds) while still holding your finger over the hole.
- Repeat the procedure once more.
- All of the air should now be out of the M/C and you should feel pressure buildup beneath you finger every time you slightly touch the pedal to apply.
- Reconnect the line quickly and secure without letting the reservoir get low.
Next, bleed the caliper with the shortest line first (probably requires an assistant).
- 2 pumps on the pedal and hold the pedal while you open the bleeder valve.
- The caliper bleed valves need to be in the highest position (upper most of the caliper).
- Do this several times and then do the same on the remaining wheel.
Does your system have a 'residual check valve' in it ??
You should achieve pedal pressure at this point.
If the pedal seems to pump up, slowly re-bleed the wheels again.
If you leave unattended and return later to find you have no pedal, residual check valve time.
Hope this helps.
A picture of the caliper mounted would really help too.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
Jim, what I do NOT understand is each time there is a post there seems to be a new or different [problem. In the beginning of this thread the OP was looking for info on how to bleed the brakes, slowly this has evolved to a leak?
One thing for sure is we need ALL the info and pictures of the set up including the brake pedal and linkage to be the most effective in helping solve this on going problem.
Lee H. Mann
Gone But Not Forgotten
I saw a post earlier that you had made in this reference.
I was taught in the Raybestos Brake School in 1969.
I worked at a Brake Shop until I became a Line Mechanic for Chevrolet in 1978.
I have been building Trikes since 1998.
I have developed drum to disc brake conversions as well.
In a Tee type fitting where you have lines of differing lengths, as you do in a typical trike application, do the shorter line one first.
And if they are the same length lines, it doesn't matter. (like in most cars)
It saves time and mess and you usually only have to do it once.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
That was a very good class, I did it as a refresher course and used it as info for my training platform
Not sure about the residual valve thing. What and where would it be!
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