I like the bleeder systems that "push" fluid from the wheels up to the master cylinder, air wants to go up anyway. Also check the service manual, there's usually a bleeding procedure in them.
I have posted brake problem in another post. I haven’t turned wrenches in a few years. When I work on my brakes if I remember you start farthest from the master cylinder. My question is what do you do to get air from the split at the wheels. Just want advice from experience.
The master is the one that worked with the old trike kit! Don’t know what is the problem. :gah::gah:
After I changed the line seals I still had a leak. I examined the line ends and there were scars on the top line which might cause a leak. I used ultra fine sandpaper and lots of time pretty well smoothing them out. I reassembled them and there seems to be no leaks. Now I am having a hard time getting pedal. Need help y’all! Any advice could come in handy!
You will have trouble getting a pedal if there's not enough play to allow the bypass port to open.
I have read the thread and I am not sure that the M/C has been properly bled.
- Disconnect the line at the back of the M/C.
- Fill the reservoir with fluid.
- Take your finger and place over the hole where the line connects.
- With the other hand, slowly depress the pedal until you feel pressure.
- Release your finger slightly to allow the fluid under pressure to escape.
- Once the full stroke has been achieved, seal the hole with your finger again.
- Release the pedal and allow the M/C to recharge itself (5 seconds) while still holding your finger over the hole.
- Repeat the procedure once more.
- All of the air should now be out of the M/C and you should feel pressure buildup beneath you finger every time you slightly touch the pedal to apply.
- Reconnect the line quickly and secure without letting the reservoir get low.
Next, bleed the caliper with the shortest line first (probably requires an assistant).
- 2 pumps on the pedal and hold the pedal while you open the bleeder valve.
- The caliper bleed valves need to be in the highest position (upper most of the caliper).
- Do this several times and then do the same on the remaining wheel.
Does your system have a 'residual check valve' in it ??
You should achieve pedal pressure at this point.
If the pedal seems to pump up, slowly re-bleed the wheels again.
If you leave unattended and return later to find you have no pedal, residual check valve time.
Hope this helps.
A picture of the caliper mounted would really help too.
I have read the thread and I am not sure that the M/C has been properly bled.
Next, bleed the caliper with the shortest line first (probably requires an assistant).
I have read the thread and I am not sure that the M/C has been properly bled.
Next, bleed the caliper with the shortest line first (probably requires an assistant).
??????
this is a new one on me? longest is usually 1st,,,,
I saw a post earlier that you had made in this reference.
I was taught in the Raybestos Brake School in 1969.
I worked at a Brake Shop until I became a Line Mechanic for Chevrolet in 1978.
I have been building Trikes since 1998.
I have developed drum to disc brake conversions as well.
In a Tee type fitting where you have lines of differing lengths, as you do in a typical trike application, do the shorter line one first.
And if they are the same length lines, it doesn't matter. (like in most cars)
It saves time and mess and you usually only have to do it once.