Greetings Fellow Trike riders. I am new to the forum so please bear with what may seem like some pretty mundane questions. I own a 2009 Tri-glide and basically like the stability and ease of riding two up. I previously owned an 06 Ultra. My wife and I tour a great deal and last summer did an 8K mile trip from the East Coast, though Canada, down the West Coast and back. My problem/concern is this: The trike, fully loaded was totally underpowered! Riding against a head wind in Montana where everyone was going 90MPH, I could barely maintain 70+. So the question, what mods could I have done/make to increase power? My 06 Ultra was converted to a 95 CUI kit with cams, SE heads, SE race tuner and Reinhardt Exhausts. Is/are there big bore kits for the 103? I am not sure I need to spend what it cost have the Ultra upgraded, you would think a 103 would provide enough power. So what do you suggest as an economical solution to improve performance and not break the bank. By the way riding the trike is truly a blast. Thanks for any suggestions.
Need More Power for 09 Tri Glide
- Thread starter Guiderider
- Start date
I installed V&H Power Duals and Twin Slash Oval Slip-Ons w/Big Sucker Stage 1 and then had it dyno'd (Tucson HD) ended up with 74hp & 92# torque @ the wheels, runs great! bought everything at Direct Harley Parts,great prices and service
2012 Tri Glide
2012 Tri Glide
Bikerbozo
Class Clown
The 1st thing you might want to look into is updated ECM flash. That made a big power difference with my '10 TG. Especially in 6th gear. That said, if I am going into really high winds, I still slow down. The flash seems to have helped the power quite a bit, though. I would guess that it changed the timing.
The single biggest issue on an 09 is the gearing. 6th gear is so tall it is hard to maintain speed in the conditions you describe. A lot of mods like ECM flashes, pipes, air cleaners, etc., will have little effect until you change the transmission sprocket. Go to the top of the stickys and there is a whole thread on the topic.
I believe the first thing I would do is have the 32 tooth sprocket swapped out for a 30 tooth sprocket and then go from there. I have an 09 tg and in stock form they are underpowered and run hot.
Like you I came off an 06 Ultra with the 95 BB,SE 204 cams,and head work.
Read the attached sticky.
http://www.triketalk.com/forum/harley-trikes/7642-changing-triglide-transmission-sprocket.html
Like you I came off an 06 Ultra with the 95 BB,SE 204 cams,and head work.
Read the attached sticky.
http://www.triketalk.com/forum/harley-trikes/7642-changing-triglide-transmission-sprocket.html
when you have the bike dyno'd it takes care of all the problems, if the tech knows what he's doing! richins up gas, lowers heat, more power etc because it changes the settings in the ECM (screamin’ eagle® Pro super tuner)
T
TheBobs
Guest
Welcome Guiderider. I'm currently at 82.89hp and 105tq.
My goal modifying was aimed at setting up my '10 TG to handle the mountains passes between California and Alaska while towing a 300lb trailer, as well as getting rid of the excess heat. After studying Wizard's sticky on the A+B=C thread a few times, as well as studying the other regulars' mods and their lessons learned, I started throwing a bunch of plastic at the project.
This is what I did:
1) 30T drivebelt sprocket; 2) TTS; 3) SE A/C; 4) SE-255 cams; 5) Fuel Moto 2-1-2 headpipe and Jackpot mufflers; 6) Stock mufflers re-installed; 7) Dyno tune. Also ceramic coated and wrapped the headpipe along the way.
Result: Runs strong up hill, into the wind, up hill and into the wind, in the winter and summer. 70-80 mph on the freeways is no problem at all. Tested and exceeded expectations over Donner Pass, Tejon Pass, Mountain Pass, Cajon Pass and Tehachapi Pass. It really pulls fully loaded and 2-up. Still need to run a couple of those passes 1-up with the trailer which is how I'm going to Alaska.
Had I done the 30T sprocket first, I may have skipped the cam upgrade. Our biggest problem on the '09s and '10's is a mismatch between peak torque and our gearing. Throw a 30T on is and your '09 will come alive! Pretty much everything else I did above was for heat abatement.
Good luck and welcome aboard. I look forward to reading about your mods.
My goal modifying was aimed at setting up my '10 TG to handle the mountains passes between California and Alaska while towing a 300lb trailer, as well as getting rid of the excess heat. After studying Wizard's sticky on the A+B=C thread a few times, as well as studying the other regulars' mods and their lessons learned, I started throwing a bunch of plastic at the project.
This is what I did:
1) 30T drivebelt sprocket; 2) TTS; 3) SE A/C; 4) SE-255 cams; 5) Fuel Moto 2-1-2 headpipe and Jackpot mufflers; 6) Stock mufflers re-installed; 7) Dyno tune. Also ceramic coated and wrapped the headpipe along the way.
Result: Runs strong up hill, into the wind, up hill and into the wind, in the winter and summer. 70-80 mph on the freeways is no problem at all. Tested and exceeded expectations over Donner Pass, Tejon Pass, Mountain Pass, Cajon Pass and Tehachapi Pass. It really pulls fully loaded and 2-up. Still need to run a couple of those passes 1-up with the trailer which is how I'm going to Alaska.
Had I done the 30T sprocket first, I may have skipped the cam upgrade. Our biggest problem on the '09s and '10's is a mismatch between peak torque and our gearing. Throw a 30T on is and your '09 will come alive! Pretty much everything else I did above was for heat abatement.
Good luck and welcome aboard. I look forward to reading about your mods.
Wow you have all be so great! Thank you so much for your advice. It looks like going to the 30T sprocket will be my first step and I will move on from there. When changing to the smaller sprocket will I have to replace the drive chain or remove links? Funny to talk about this, back in the day I had a Yamaha DT1 Enduro (yup I am an old fart) and road all over Colorado. To gain more power I used a real small counter tooth sprocket and every once and a while we would go to a 52 tooth overlay at the rear. The darn thing would virtually climb up walls (not really) but it was a great climber. Not so good on the road however!! I hate to sound dumb, but here goes, in step 2 you abbreviate TTS. What does that mean? I get SE Screaming Eagle and the rest. Sorry but I am learning. Again you have all been great.
i also have a '09 t/g. thus far i have added the s&s 510 gear cam, (eliminates the cam shoe) also put in a fueling oil pressure spring. this upped my oil pressure 12 at indle and 55 psi anywhere above idle. S&S likes that idea because the gear cam has cage bearings;thus needing instant oil pressure at start-up. i did this at 11k on the bike 18.8k now and am very satisfied with the performance. stock exhaust etc. and i did the revolution performance
EFI . lately i had the baker 5.5 oil pan installed. but only get 4.5 qts oil with filter change.
AND aaannnnnnddddddddddd the belt rubs the oil pan as the new oil pan is thicker than the oil one. hasn't really hurt the belt, just rubed the paint off. so if you one you might hit the lt. side with a belt sander. i e-mailed baker the pics. and put them on this site under
"'09 t/g install baker plus oil pan) but never heard back from them. that was thanksgiving time. so i only have about 100 mi. on bike since so while i was installing the performance machine stage 1 brake system i tryed to hand sand that area,while the trike was jacked-up. i really like the p/m stage 1. hope this helps. lb if you do the tooth sproket replacement, you need to get the speedometer corrected.
"09 t/g install p/m stage 1
m stage 1 rear brakes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the rear master cyl was easily removed. i just took off the brake pedal. got the brake lines run. now waiting for the new r/disc to come in on sat.
has anybody removed the rear axles? the p/m kit has new disc mounting ring, and the axle has to be removed to install it. as per manual the axle either come off easy or use a slide hammer.in my seeing things if you mark the axle relative to the housing then remove the axle the splines should line up when re-installing the axle. any other opinions appreciated.thanks no slideing hammer needed to remove axle. red thread locker on bolts. didn't have any trouble removeing them toqque 41-45* , but did have to use map gas to heat up 1 bolt. there is red threadlocker on the ft. disc brake bolts, so heat them up before removeing then. also buy (8) new 3/8x1 1/4, 24 thread bolts and grade 8 nuts ,
and you can get a 9/16" open-end wrench to tighten them up. the "T" bolts fit snug against the axle. and same only 1" for disc bolts. the axle are thru bolts (no threads in axle) OEM uses T bolts, so you can get a 14 MM socket on the nuts. grade 8 nuts work better when installing.. dealer has no nuts or bolts in stock, so preplan for this.also before you run the brake lines wrap the ends in k-mart bags & use a bread tie- to secure it. this will prevent any dirt fron getting into the lines. the i use 1/4x28 speedbleeders ( sb1428-ss 1/4x28)for the front and 3/8x24
sb3824-ss for the rears. Ss is stainless. had 1 front. bleeder that wouldn't go in, so i wire brushed the threads, then ok. tomorrow to install calipers, and bleed. i use DOT super blue 15.00 per ltr. and the next time amber colored brake fluid. available on line.when you route the brake lines hook upborh rear calipers but leave the nuts looose for alinement purposes later , then 2 rear lines to the line leading to the brake sensor. start from the very back and route the line to just over swing arm & to the rear of rt side cover. ft line install it to the brake resivor first then route the line along the lower frame. pull the line toward you and install the brake switch and tighten the line to the rear line. p/m master cylinder takes a 5/32 allen wrench
EFI . lately i had the baker 5.5 oil pan installed. but only get 4.5 qts oil with filter change.
AND aaannnnnnddddddddddd the belt rubs the oil pan as the new oil pan is thicker than the oil one. hasn't really hurt the belt, just rubed the paint off. so if you one you might hit the lt. side with a belt sander. i e-mailed baker the pics. and put them on this site under
"'09 t/g install baker plus oil pan) but never heard back from them. that was thanksgiving time. so i only have about 100 mi. on bike since so while i was installing the performance machine stage 1 brake system i tryed to hand sand that area,while the trike was jacked-up. i really like the p/m stage 1. hope this helps. lb if you do the tooth sproket replacement, you need to get the speedometer corrected.
"09 t/g install p/m stage 1
m stage 1 rear brakes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the rear master cyl was easily removed. i just took off the brake pedal. got the brake lines run. now waiting for the new r/disc to come in on sat.
has anybody removed the rear axles? the p/m kit has new disc mounting ring, and the axle has to be removed to install it. as per manual the axle either come off easy or use a slide hammer.in my seeing things if you mark the axle relative to the housing then remove the axle the splines should line up when re-installing the axle. any other opinions appreciated.thanks no slideing hammer needed to remove axle. red thread locker on bolts. didn't have any trouble removeing them toqque 41-45* , but did have to use map gas to heat up 1 bolt. there is red threadlocker on the ft. disc brake bolts, so heat them up before removeing then. also buy (8) new 3/8x1 1/4, 24 thread bolts and grade 8 nuts ,
and you can get a 9/16" open-end wrench to tighten them up. the "T" bolts fit snug against the axle. and same only 1" for disc bolts. the axle are thru bolts (no threads in axle) OEM uses T bolts, so you can get a 14 MM socket on the nuts. grade 8 nuts work better when installing.. dealer has no nuts or bolts in stock, so preplan for this.also before you run the brake lines wrap the ends in k-mart bags & use a bread tie- to secure it. this will prevent any dirt fron getting into the lines. the i use 1/4x28 speedbleeders ( sb1428-ss 1/4x28)for the front and 3/8x24
sb3824-ss for the rears. Ss is stainless. had 1 front. bleeder that wouldn't go in, so i wire brushed the threads, then ok. tomorrow to install calipers, and bleed. i use DOT super blue 15.00 per ltr. and the next time amber colored brake fluid. available on line.when you route the brake lines hook upborh rear calipers but leave the nuts looose for alinement purposes later , then 2 rear lines to the line leading to the brake sensor. start from the very back and route the line to just over swing arm & to the rear of rt side cover. ft line install it to the brake resivor first then route the line along the lower frame. pull the line toward you and install the brake switch and tighten the line to the rear line. p/m master cylinder takes a 5/32 allen wrench
Last edited:
T
TheBobs
Guest
Hey Guide, you have a belt drive on the final drive. The sprocket is more like a cog. Good news is that you won't have to change the belt. Plenty of adjustment room left after the mod.
could have bought a goldwing
Gorilla
Senior Moderator
Eagle can you discribe the installation of the PM Stage 1 kit please? Did the calipers bolt onto the stock mount plate etc. Thanks,, Ted
Ouch.... That's gonna leave a mark:laugh:.
No the stock caliper mounting plates get removed and the new PM calipers install onto the new PM plate.
http://www.performancemachine.com/Assets/instructionSheets/pm_trike_brakekit.pdf
120r crate motor I have seen them as low as $4,600 and sell the 103 for $2,000 maybe more to the right person. If you can do the swap yourself that much better. To R&R a motor at the dealer is only around $600 bucks still a good way to go.
SR
SR
T
TheBobs
Guest
TTS is stands for "The Turbo Shop." The full name of the product is TTS Mastertune. It's one of the many ways to change how the EFI runs when mods are made to the engine, intake and exhause. Google TTS Mastertune and the site tells quite a bit about the product. There are others on here way more qualified to talk about this than I.
gorilla do a search for
'09 t/g install p/m stage 1 rear brake" and look on page 2 for my posting. lb
'09 t/g install p/m stage 1 rear brake" and look on page 2 for my posting. lb
'09 t/g installing p/m stage 1 rear brakes
the rear master cyl was easily removed. i just took off the brake pedal. got the brake lines run. now waiting for the new r/disc to come in on sat.
has anybody removed the rear axles? the p/m kit has new disc mounting ring, and the axle has to be removed to install it. as per manual the axle either come off easy or use a slide hammer.in my seeing things if you mark the axle relative to the housing then remove the axle the splines should line up when re-installing the axle. any other opinions appreciated.thanks no slideing hammer needed to remove axle. red thread locker on bolts. didn't have any trouble removeing them toqque 41-45* , but did have to use map gas to heat up 1 bolt. there is red threadlocker on the ft. disc brake bolts, so heat them up before removeing then. also buy (8) new 3/8x1 1/4, 24 thread bolts and grade 8 nuts ,
and you can get a 9/16" open-end wrench to tighten them up. the "T" bolts fit snug against the axle. and same only 1" for disc bolts. the axle are thru bolts (no threads in axle) OEM uses T bolts, so you can get a 14 MM socket on the nuts. grade 8 nuts work better when installing.. dealer has no nuts or bolts in stock, so preplan for this.also before you run the brake lines wrap the ends in k-mart bags & use a bread tie- to secure it. this will prevent any dirt fron getting into the lines. the i use 1/4x28 speedbleeders ( sb1428-ss 1/4x28)for the front and 3/8x24
sb3824-ss for the rears. Ss is stainless. had 1 front. bleeder that wouldn't go in, so i wire brushed the threads, then ok. tomorrow to install calipers, and bleed. i use DOT super blue 15.00 per ltr. and the next time amber colored brake fluid. available on line.when you route the brake lines hook upborh rear calipers but leave the nuts looose for alinement purposes later , then 2 rear lines to the line leading to the brake sensor. start from the very back and route the line to just over swing arm & to the rear of rt side cover. ft line install it to the brake resivor first then route the line along the lower frame. pull the line toward you and install the brake switch and tighten the line to the rear line. p/m master cylinder takes a 5/32 allen wrench
the rear master cyl was easily removed. i just took off the brake pedal. got the brake lines run. now waiting for the new r/disc to come in on sat.
has anybody removed the rear axles? the p/m kit has new disc mounting ring, and the axle has to be removed to install it. as per manual the axle either come off easy or use a slide hammer.in my seeing things if you mark the axle relative to the housing then remove the axle the splines should line up when re-installing the axle. any other opinions appreciated.thanks no slideing hammer needed to remove axle. red thread locker on bolts. didn't have any trouble removeing them toqque 41-45* , but did have to use map gas to heat up 1 bolt. there is red threadlocker on the ft. disc brake bolts, so heat them up before removeing then. also buy (8) new 3/8x1 1/4, 24 thread bolts and grade 8 nuts ,
and you can get a 9/16" open-end wrench to tighten them up. the "T" bolts fit snug against the axle. and same only 1" for disc bolts. the axle are thru bolts (no threads in axle) OEM uses T bolts, so you can get a 14 MM socket on the nuts. grade 8 nuts work better when installing.. dealer has no nuts or bolts in stock, so preplan for this.also before you run the brake lines wrap the ends in k-mart bags & use a bread tie- to secure it. this will prevent any dirt fron getting into the lines. the i use 1/4x28 speedbleeders ( sb1428-ss 1/4x28)for the front and 3/8x24
sb3824-ss for the rears. Ss is stainless. had 1 front. bleeder that wouldn't go in, so i wire brushed the threads, then ok. tomorrow to install calipers, and bleed. i use DOT super blue 15.00 per ltr. and the next time amber colored brake fluid. available on line.when you route the brake lines hook upborh rear calipers but leave the nuts looose for alinement purposes later , then 2 rear lines to the line leading to the brake sensor. start from the very back and route the line to just over swing arm & to the rear of rt side cover. ft line install it to the brake resivor first then route the line along the lower frame. pull the line toward you and install the brake switch and tighten the line to the rear line. p/m master cylinder takes a 5/32 allen wrench
Reduce the load. Find the load rating on you bike, and stay 15% below it. Two riders, 40# in trunk, pulling a trailer, stuff stuffed in compartments...all weight. Souvenirs alone from a 8k ride will overload king bikes. It would be cheaper to diet than punch your bike out.
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