Ironhorsepilot
Contributing Member
I called the company and they recommended that the triglide get the VP008-92T So that is what I am going with.(I guess) UGH! But what is a stronger locker, such as what tmigala wants? Man, I am so confused!
Stop That Slipping Clutch
- Thread starter 1550vt
- Start date
Here is the info on the VP008-92T.
Fits 1998 and up Big Twin Models. Engine sizes up to 124” c.i.d. (2000cc) using stock spring with carb, exhaust, ignition and cam upgrades. Up to 160 ft. lbs. of torque with Screaming Eagle spring. 6% lighter clutch pull than stock. Up to 145” c.i.d. motor with a Heavy-Duty spring. No modifications required.
I'm just as much a novice as everyone else at this product but with the above VPC you would only get 6% reduction in your clutch lever pull. I hate to disagree with the factory...:blush: I think they gave you a good VPC number but all the good that number will do you is lock up the clutch to prevent slipping and will not give you any relief at stop lights.
I maybe totally off base here and really wish VT or UB would chime in when they get a chance...so, I'm keeping my mouth shut until we hear from them then I will change the name/part number post above as necessary.
YOOOO VT! UB!!!
BinIdaho
TOI - Idaho
I'm a mechanical nerd...I know nothing! Would somebody who convered with Ultraboy clue me in as what part number? Or Wiz got it correctly for me.
Ironhorsepilot
Contributing Member
Reskul,
The part you have ordered states it goes up to 1580 cc's and 96 cu in and that just sounds like it would not handle our 1687cc's and 103 cu in. I asked the guy if this was a 50% reduction clutch and he said yes..... I read the same thing you did.
The part you have ordered states it goes up to 1580 cc's and 96 cu in and that just sounds like it would not handle our 1687cc's and 103 cu in. I asked the guy if this was a 50% reduction clutch and he said yes..... I read the same thing you did.
Yes.. the 103 is a 1690 ci motor and the 96 is a 1580 ci. Nana's 88 is a 1450 ci. The clutch baskets are the same for an 07 and up so the VPC will fit either. I have not researched the 88 to see if the clutch basket is the same as ours but to be honest I really am not sure without checking. I should know owning an 05 an 06 and an 07. If I had to guess I would say they are the all same for these three motors.
What they, the factory, are doing is comparing ci to torque. Where I get tossed is where VT said he disregarded the factory's advise with the medium VPC and instead purchased the low VPC which would be the (standard) or model I picked out for myself and the TG. Which is the reason I can't make up my mind between the VP013-84S or the VP014-84T. The 84S being the low and the 84T being the medium. Now the reason I keep saying Low and Medium is because AIM changed around to a different identification part number system that we are looking at today so I understand from VT and UB.
Each VPC guarantees a proper clutch lock up (at different RPM ranges depending on the model which is for different power bands and torque numbers). The difference I am looking for everyone is the proper reduction of the clutch lever pull. You and I have an advantage over Barbara as she only has 20% left hand strength. I have a 40 lb pull on my SE clutch spring that I need to get back to normal. You have a stock spring but your hands are small and the reduction would be very useful so I am looking at the 50% pull reduction.
That VP008-92T recommendation by the factory guy has me blown away. Why would he recommend a VPC that could handle 160 ft lbs of torque is just beyond me. Then with only a 6% pull reduction on the lever would leave me out of this deal. I wouldn't waste my milk money on 2 or 3 pounds of lever reduction.
We aren't going to order anything until every thing is cut and dry. Right now we keep confusing ourselves. This is why I am waiting on the guru's to chime in and help. I may be all wrong about this but like you I want to be confident with my choice and the last thing I would want to do is give you guys a part number that doesn't make the grade. I've been in enough trouble this month. :yes:
Ironhorsepilot
Contributing Member
Okey Dokey. Me being woman, and blonde at that, can become a confusing mess when talking about mechanical thingy poos:blush:
So we will wait. You are right, I don't need only a 6% reduction in pull. I have arthritis in my left hand, so I am sure when I get in stop and go traffic I will be hurting! My husband hates my clutch, says it is too hard for him. But he is used to his easy pull.
So we will wait. You are right, I don't need only a 6% reduction in pull. I have arthritis in my left hand, so I am sure when I get in stop and go traffic I will be hurting! My husband hates my clutch, says it is too hard for him. But he is used to his easy pull.
All...I work one night a week.....and THIS is the night. Tomorrow (Friday where I live) I will give a complete rundown of the models. I am running the 70T over an SE (380 pound) spring on an engine of @100hp pulling around 1500 pounds and that's working for me. I truly think the 70T will work on just about anything I have seen posted here, but let me think on it. Remember, this thing is also directed to true racers and allows them to pull the VERY heavy springs of 400 and more pounds. That is what the device was designed for. The 70T produces more clamping force on whatever you are running now anyway and I do not think anybody is going to slip a clutch.
MORE TOMORROW!
MORE TOMORROW!
BinIdaho
TOI - Idaho
Okey Dokey. Me being woman, and blonde at that, can become a confusing mess when talking about mechanical thingy poos:blush:
So we will wait. You are right, I don't need only a 6% reduction in pull. I have arthritis in my left hand, so I am sure when I get in stop and go traffic I will be hurting! My husband hates my clutch, says it is too hard for him. But he is used to his easy pull.
LOL.....that makes two of us Joanne......woman and blonde (ok, maybe it comes in bottle). Anyhooooo, I'll wait for TPTB to let me know what P/N I need.
EVERYBODY...Let me again state that I do not work for AIM, never have, never will and am not connected/associated with AIM in any way whatsoever for any personal or financial gain. I simply found the VPC on other forums and read where other people had solved problems with this device. Understand that the device was invented for and directed toward the race community. I used it to completely solve a clutch pull issue. If you have a high performace machine with a godzilla-strength clutch spring, often rev it up to the limiter, pop the clutch and burn the tires....you are seeking a different device than the normal rider with stock equipment simply seeking easier clutch-pull.
The model number that you may need is a "relative" thing, relative to what strength diaphram spring you have in your scoot. The 70T over an SE spring provides "similar" pull as the 84T over a stock spring. Some of you have navigated to the aim-tamachi.com web site. You can navigate through that site and find a table at the bottom of a page that list the expected reductions based on model and diaphram spring. From what I have read in this post, I cannot see any need for anyone needing anything other that the 70T. The only way you will get any appreciable pull reduction with the 84T is if you have a stock diaphram spring. The 92T is for the people with Popeye arms that love to punish themselves. 92T is for the high performance drag racer. Don't even consider the 92T.
I think the only way you will be dissapointed is if you put the 70T in a monster motor with a stock spring. In this case, you may have some slippage.
Or, get the 84T and realize it does not reduce effort enough.
All I can tell you for sure is that this is what I have and it works for me. 70T with an SE spring 1550 Stage II tuned and ported intake. I imagine this is close to 100 pounds of torque and my trike weighs about as much as anybody's. I have rev'd it up and tried to make it slip....but it don't and I have a very comfortable lever-pull.
You can achieve similar reduction results by installing easy-pull components in the lifting mechanisim or installing a weaker spring. The HD easy-pull system provides a weaker spring, but puts your heavy ride at risk of clutch slippage. The reason you have a strong spring in there in the first place is your heavy trike. The VPC does both...it provides for easy-pull over a heavy spring and positive clutch lock up.
Don't let me spend your money on anything you are not sure of here folks. I just think the 70T is the option all of you should take.
I will be very happy to "talk technical" about how this thing works and the science behind it to those that wish to send me a private message, but you can see for yourself at the aim-tamachi website.
The model number that you may need is a "relative" thing, relative to what strength diaphram spring you have in your scoot. The 70T over an SE spring provides "similar" pull as the 84T over a stock spring. Some of you have navigated to the aim-tamachi.com web site. You can navigate through that site and find a table at the bottom of a page that list the expected reductions based on model and diaphram spring. From what I have read in this post, I cannot see any need for anyone needing anything other that the 70T. The only way you will get any appreciable pull reduction with the 84T is if you have a stock diaphram spring. The 92T is for the people with Popeye arms that love to punish themselves. 92T is for the high performance drag racer. Don't even consider the 92T.
I think the only way you will be dissapointed is if you put the 70T in a monster motor with a stock spring. In this case, you may have some slippage.
Or, get the 84T and realize it does not reduce effort enough.
All I can tell you for sure is that this is what I have and it works for me. 70T with an SE spring 1550 Stage II tuned and ported intake. I imagine this is close to 100 pounds of torque and my trike weighs about as much as anybody's. I have rev'd it up and tried to make it slip....but it don't and I have a very comfortable lever-pull.
You can achieve similar reduction results by installing easy-pull components in the lifting mechanisim or installing a weaker spring. The HD easy-pull system provides a weaker spring, but puts your heavy ride at risk of clutch slippage. The reason you have a strong spring in there in the first place is your heavy trike. The VPC does both...it provides for easy-pull over a heavy spring and positive clutch lock up.
Don't let me spend your money on anything you are not sure of here folks. I just think the 70T is the option all of you should take.
I will be very happy to "talk technical" about how this thing works and the science behind it to those that wish to send me a private message, but you can see for yourself at the aim-tamachi website.
I think it makes your trike lean uncontrollably on right hand turns.
just kidding.. but wouldn't that be a hoot.
just kidding.. but wouldn't that be a hoot.
bdn56
Contributing Member
OK..
From what I've heard, read, searched, thought about... My conclusion is the following.
I have a very hard clutch pull with the SE spring and the "easy pull" located at the end of my clutch cable is not an option for me. The only ones that will fit my bike cost about as much as the VPC. The "easy pull" for the TG is the same. I've found them between 150.00 to 175.00 that will fit. From what I understand, the 60.00 (or so) HD Easy Pull will not fit my trike or the TG's.
I'm not looking for something that will help me lock the clutch basket because I have the SE spring but if the VPC will reduce my clutch lever pull and guarentee me clutch basket lock up then I am looking for the one that gives me the best reduction on my clutch lever which seems to be the VP015-70T.
According to VT, the VP015-70T is what he has. We have almost the identical set up. Says his works great and is easy to pull so that is the number I will go with. Sometimes you have to take a leap of faith (after you research the heck out of it) and make the call. One of the nice things about this is it takes 15 minutes to install so it would take 15 minutes to take off. So, if I ever sell the trike I will do just that and put it on either my SE Fatboy or another bike/trike purchase.
Thanks for the hard work VT... I'll go with your suggestion. VP015-70T which I understand now to be the "low" unit you spoke of.
I would also recommend the same for BinIdaho and IHP.
Ted, you said which number you wanted but after reading VT's explanation would you like to reconsider your choice?
I've changed my order number on the above order page for UB. Please chime in and let me know your decisions so I can make the proper changes.
Thanks
From what I've heard, read, searched, thought about... My conclusion is the following.
I have a very hard clutch pull with the SE spring and the "easy pull" located at the end of my clutch cable is not an option for me. The only ones that will fit my bike cost about as much as the VPC. The "easy pull" for the TG is the same. I've found them between 150.00 to 175.00 that will fit. From what I understand, the 60.00 (or so) HD Easy Pull will not fit my trike or the TG's.
I'm not looking for something that will help me lock the clutch basket because I have the SE spring but if the VPC will reduce my clutch lever pull and guarentee me clutch basket lock up then I am looking for the one that gives me the best reduction on my clutch lever which seems to be the VP015-70T.
According to VT, the VP015-70T is what he has. We have almost the identical set up. Says his works great and is easy to pull so that is the number I will go with. Sometimes you have to take a leap of faith (after you research the heck out of it) and make the call. One of the nice things about this is it takes 15 minutes to install so it would take 15 minutes to take off. So, if I ever sell the trike I will do just that and put it on either my SE Fatboy or another bike/trike purchase.
Thanks for the hard work VT... I'll go with your suggestion. VP015-70T which I understand now to be the "low" unit you spoke of.
I would also recommend the same for BinIdaho and IHP.
Ted, you said which number you wanted but after reading VT's explanation would you like to reconsider your choice?
I've changed my order number on the above order page for UB. Please chime in and let me know your decisions so I can make the proper changes.
Thanks
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BinIdaho
TOI - Idaho
Dave,
You pick the proper one for me:yes:
IHP...one more purchase and we should be good to go
You pick the proper one for me:yes:
IHP...one more purchase and we should be good to go
REKSUL...(my buddy)...while I was working on my leaning Lehman and was making little progress...I jumped over to the clutch-pull issue in hopes of just fixing something. Ever had those times when you just wanted "something" to work? I gurantee all of you that the 70T solved my problem and is very comfortable. I realize some of you folks are packing more hp and torque than me, but I bet you rarely use it. Who wants to go around breaking drive-belts anyway! I use to tear the teeth off drive belts until I "matured".
I surely would not steer anyone in the wrong direction on purpose. Keep in mind that the folks at AIM may be recomending stuff to you from a high-performance angle. The mindset there is to provide a lifting system so a racer can run and pull that godzilla clutch and obtain 100% lock-up as RPM builds. The racer is not that much interested in reduced effort...he/she just wants one they can pull-in at all.
I think you would have to change your spring back to a stock spring to realize any reduction if you go with the 84T. The dynamics of it all points you to the 84T and stock spring, or the 70T with the SE spring. The 84T does give you more static clamping force at rest, but while you are at rest or a few hundred RPM...you don't need it. Reksul mentioned somewhere in this thread that we all "slip the clutch" anyway to some degree every time we take off, that's why it's called a clutch. You may have to alter the RPM at which you dump the clutch, but you will figure that out. No two bikes/trikes are the same and yours may feel different than the ones next to you in the parking lot. It's always been that way.
I really, really suggest the 70T. Look...we have all have pee'd away a lot more money for parts on our toys that did not work. I think this one is a much safer bet. I paid full retail for mine and have never regretted it. Take the discount from UB and you won't even risk what I did.
I surely would not steer anyone in the wrong direction on purpose. Keep in mind that the folks at AIM may be recomending stuff to you from a high-performance angle. The mindset there is to provide a lifting system so a racer can run and pull that godzilla clutch and obtain 100% lock-up as RPM builds. The racer is not that much interested in reduced effort...he/she just wants one they can pull-in at all.
I think you would have to change your spring back to a stock spring to realize any reduction if you go with the 84T. The dynamics of it all points you to the 84T and stock spring, or the 70T with the SE spring. The 84T does give you more static clamping force at rest, but while you are at rest or a few hundred RPM...you don't need it. Reksul mentioned somewhere in this thread that we all "slip the clutch" anyway to some degree every time we take off, that's why it's called a clutch. You may have to alter the RPM at which you dump the clutch, but you will figure that out. No two bikes/trikes are the same and yours may feel different than the ones next to you in the parking lot. It's always been that way.
I really, really suggest the 70T. Look...we have all have pee'd away a lot more money for parts on our toys that did not work. I think this one is a much safer bet. I paid full retail for mine and have never regretted it. Take the discount from UB and you won't even risk what I did.
Dave,
You pick the proper one for me:yes:
IHP...one more purchase and we should be good to go
Done
No pun intended but I think you are spinning your wheels with the tire conversation.:yes: If the tire sidewall was an issue you would encounter the increased lean turning left as well as to the right.
Sorry for the hijack, that was another thread.
No problem reksul...I air my dirty laundry across all threads.
Yep...I think you are correct on the tire issue save one or two issues I can cure. The main one is wheel removal and gearing. If I drop to a 225 or a 215, I can keep my stock 15-inch wheels and reduce tire diameter an inch-or-so as well as thickness. All this will allow easy wheel removal. Right now with these fat 245's, it's a real bear to remove a wheel. The reduced diameter will change my gearing a tad...say couple-hundred RPM at 70 MPH. This bike has a Baker 6-speed overdrive in it and has always been geared much too high. This will help me out across all 6-gears and I would not have to change any sprockets. Will also drop the ride height down an inch-or-so, result in a front rake adjustment (though slight) and may even help handling. I expect I will go to a 215 or 225.
Yep...I think you are correct on the tire issue save one or two issues I can cure. The main one is wheel removal and gearing. If I drop to a 225 or a 215, I can keep my stock 15-inch wheels and reduce tire diameter an inch-or-so as well as thickness. All this will allow easy wheel removal. Right now with these fat 245's, it's a real bear to remove a wheel. The reduced diameter will change my gearing a tad...say couple-hundred RPM at 70 MPH. This bike has a Baker 6-speed overdrive in it and has always been geared much too high. This will help me out across all 6-gears and I would not have to change any sprockets. Will also drop the ride height down an inch-or-so, result in a front rake adjustment (though slight) and may even help handling. I expect I will go to a 215 or 225.
Take a flashlight and a couple of concrete blocks and head downtown. You'll find that mustang you are looking for.
OK, that wasn't funny.
Drop that compensating gear down a few teeth. Bryan went from a 34 to a 30 tooth on his 08. Now he has this "Joker" grin on his face that won't wash off. He's on his way here for a cam change and a Dyno. Let's see how big his grin will get... HAHAHA
OK, that wasn't funny.
Drop that compensating gear down a few teeth. Bryan went from a 34 to a 30 tooth on his 08. Now he has this "Joker" grin on his face that won't wash off. He's on his way here for a cam change and a Dyno. Let's see how big his grin will get... HAHAHA
Ironhorsepilot
Contributing Member
Ok, VT, I have a stock spring, not a SE spring as far as I know. I would assume that SE spring would be an upgrade? So what you are saying is that I need the 84T?
Barb, only one???? I have several more things on my list. I want an air horn, too.
Dave, Just get me what you get Barbara. I can't think about this anymore.
Barb, only one???? I have several more things on my list. I want an air horn, too.
Dave, Just get me what you get Barbara. I can't think about this anymore.
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I understand... this is getting a little long.
The TG has a heaver spring than a stock bike. This is why your hubby says he doesn't like it. Although mine is a Motor Trike I have ridden a TG that the pull was heavier than let's say C's deluxe or her Dyna but not as bad as my SE Fatboy with a hydraulic clutch. It is not as hard to pull as my trike with the SE spring.
I would recommend that you get a VP015-70T which will give you the best reduction on your clutch lever pull. Your TG clutch spring and clutch plates are designed to carry the trike load but it comes with a price. A heavy lever pull. The VPC will help with extending the life of your clutch and the VP015-70T will make it easier to pull your clutch lever.
VT... if this isn't right please weigh in here. I think the VP015-70T will be perfect for their TG's.
A little history on the air horn. C's deluxe has one. After I serviced it one day I took it out for a test ride. While I was first in line at the red light waiting on a green there were two cars/trucks waiting to turn left across the intersection from me. There is not a turn arrow at this light but the first guy in a truck kicked it and turned in front of me. That was OK because I saw what he was going to do and delayed my start from the green light but... There was a lady in a SUV on the cell phone trying to play follow the leader and tried to pull in front of me while I was already in the intersection. Soooooo.. yes, I hit that air horn.
She slammed on the brakes and darn near tossed that cell phone out of the truck while she jumped about 6" off her seat. Yes, they work and now have one on my trike.
If you get one from HD you also have to purchase a special mount for it. The air horn will not just replace your old horn as it will not install without the special brackets which are extra $$.
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