Suggestions for more clearance for oil change on Roadsmith Gold Wing
- Thread starter philair
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Burnerboy
2000+ Posts
I had a 10ft 2X10 board.....
I cut six (6) one foot sections (12") and glued two boards together on top of each other (so now I have three (3) sections that are 4inches high and use a jack and lift the rear up and then place the boards under each rear wheel.................... and then jack up the front and place the third section under the front wheel...So now my bike sits evenly, and it's now four (4in) higher...............and an oil pan fits under your trike, w/o a problem... and this gives you four more inches of extra space to work under your bike, to change the oil and filter................easy peasy!
Ronnie
I cut six (6) one foot sections (12") and glued two boards together on top of each other (so now I have three (3) sections that are 4inches high and use a jack and lift the rear up and then place the boards under each rear wheel.................... and then jack up the front and place the third section under the front wheel...So now my bike sits evenly, and it's now four (4in) higher...............and an oil pan fits under your trike, w/o a problem... and this gives you four more inches of extra space to work under your bike, to change the oil and filter................easy peasy!
Ronnie
Burnerboy
2000+ Posts
I had a 10foot 2X10 board............ I cut six (6) 12 inch sections ....I then place the boards that I cut and glued two of them together (so now I have three 12 inch sections that are now four inches high.. I jack up the rear of the trike and place the two sections under each rear tire..... Then jack up the front and place the last section under the front wheel ..Your trike is now four inches higher, which now give you more then enough room to work under your trike, and be able to place a oil pan under it..
Easy peesy!
Ronnie
Easy peesy!
Ronnie
I do this usually. I start the trike in neutral, pull the reverse lever, and stand beside the trike on it's right operating the start button to back it empty up onto the ramps, helping it with pressure against the right fender with my left leg ... shut down, reverse off, trike in 1st now so no rolling … then I jack the front with the wood block under front of motor, set block, etc.
Other times, I jack the rear and set the tires on my wood ramps, then when secure, jack the front, etc.
Real 2" thick sawmill 2x10s … or … Lowe's milled 1-1/2x9-1/4s ?
Just curious.
Simple design, would support a tank too I think.
They'd be lighter and cheaper to build if just framed around the edges with 2x2 or 2x4 stud material … but then adding a 12" piece of 2x2 across each end on one side only of what you have already would give safe fixed wheel chocks at 4" lift if placed one way, or 6" height if placed the other way, assuming use of 2" stock. I like the idea. Gonna go look at my supplies.
I have a pair of Rhino ramps (light & secure on hard floor or very dry hard earth) … and a pair of solid wood ramps cut from a old 5x7 beam, but they are heavy for size (old red oak I think) ... but work great even under my truck in the yard.
And I see that "Edit" is back up!
Burnerboy
2000+ Posts
I do this usually. I start the trike in neutral, pull the reverse lever, and stand beside the trike on it's right operating the start button to back it empty up onto the ramps, helping it with pressure against the right fender with my left leg ... shut down, reverse off, trike in 1st now so no rolling … then I jack the front with the wood block under front of motor, set block, etc.
Other times, I jack the rear and set the tires on my wood ramps, then when secure, jack the front, etc.
Real 2" thick sawmill 2x10s … or … Lowe's milled 1-1/2x9-1/4s ?
Just curious.
Simple design, would support a tank too I think.
They'd be lighter and cheaper to build if just framed around the edges with 2x2 or 2x4 stud material … but then adding a 12" piece of 2x2 across each end on one side only of what you have already would give safe fixed wheel chocks at 4" lift if placed one way, or 6" height if placed the other way, assuming use of 2" stock. I like the idea. Gonna go look at my supplies.
I have a pair of Rhino ramps (light & secure on hard floor or very dry hard earth) … and a pair of solid wood ramps cut from a old 5x7 beam, but they are heavy for size (old red oak I think) ... but work great even under my truck in the yard.
And I see that "Edit" is back up!
O no, a lowes regular 2X10... your correct, I haven't seen a real 2X4 or 2X10 in years
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